Thursday 29 July 2010

Label or Look?

It's a question that many of those in the know will ask themselves and no doubt the answer can be very dependent upon your age and circumstances at the time of asking. A large number of older lads have ditched the Italian labels they used to love (Stone Island, C.P. Company, Armani, Paul & Shark etc.) and are now more focusing on the appearance of the clothes as much as the label who produce it. Indeed, with the present financial crisis and the decline in most people's disposable income many are now looking to get an outfit for a figure that they may have previously spent on one single jacket.

Value is becoming the order of the day.

Personally I have been into my clothes for a while now but being just sixteen and having no official job means that I've always had to keep an eye open for bargains and go much more for the look than for the label. Only last winter there was a Stone Island parka released which really took my fancy but at present I'm not in the financial situation to spend anything close to what it retailed at on one single jacket.

So I look elsewhere.

One of the jackets which I've been most taken by recently is a Schott NYC Mountain Parka which came in a stunning apple green colour and will be released next summer. Schott isn't a brand I would usually look at but having bumped into it when I did the rounds over the internet blogs, it immediately took my fancy. Although I've been informed that it's perceived as a label for the more "flamboyant" fellas in cities such as New York and Paris, it doesn't hold that status in the UK and given the fact it is a brand not often associated with lads, it will retain a degree of exclusivity as well.

There are certain people who claim to have favoured the look over the label for a long time (see those who wear Blue Harbour jeans) but I've never really been a fan of cutting corners on an outfit. Sure, I may not be able to afford that Nigel Cabourn or that Engineered Garments piece but I'll look to the forums, auction sites and if needs be, other brands such as Penfield or Fjällräven.

I hate high street fashion and, in general, anything that can be too easily obtained. This may seem ridiculously snobbish and may come across as me being up myself but it's just the way it is – the way I am. It may be a different kettle of fish for items which I wear less; I've heard good things of GAP chinos and I do wear Blue Harbour cargo shorts in the summer. However when it comes to anything that I'll be wearing more than a handful of times I'll try and keep an eye out for a bargain and not to compromise on quality too much.

It was interesting to see the reaction of a number of like minded individuals when they were asked about this stuff which is going to be released by high street store and bastion of all things funboy, Topman. I, myself, have to admit that some of it doesn't look too bad. But that's just where the problem lies.

It may look fine but how long will it last? The fact that it is mass produced doesn't necessarily mean that it is bad quality but as David Keyte said to me in an interview I did with him, it means that it has no 'soul'. With things like a piece of knitwear or a pair of hiking boots I am looking for something with longevity, and something that won't be worn by every man and his dog.

I also don't like the way in which several brands are having their own designs recycled and rehashed by larger companies. For instance the Albam fisherman's cagoule has been done to fuckery now with everyone from French Connection to Weekend Offender (cringe) copying it without having any aim of putting their own slant upon it. There is a fine line to be walked between drawing inspiration from something and just downright 'stealing' from it. They'll make a quick buck on these jackets no doubt, but it won't be my buck.

So what is it for me?

Personally it's just not as simple as saying 'look' or 'label'. One doesn't really take priority over the other. I've seen some pretty horrible stuff released by some pretty good labels. It'd be very good quality but would I wear it? Would I, fuck! On the other hand I've seen some reasonably appealing stuff released by high street stores but if the quality isn't there, than neither am I. It has to look right and it has to be of a good quality. This can be achieved without breaking the bank and so I don't prioritise either. Instead I try and understand the importance of both and strike a balance whilst always keeping an eye open for a bargain.

1 comment:

  1. Balance : I think you hit the nail on the head with this post. There are too many people that just buy the label's or try & create the look'. I find these people stand out, for all the wrong reasons. To truly appreciate a dresser, its often the subtle understated garment(or footwear) that brings an outfit together. These days, there are too many funboys (aka prettyboys) that throw money at labels (to achieve ....the look')! they often FAIL! Laziness and lack of understanding the culture. However when a fellow dresser does make the effort (eg with a low cost/maybe vintage or even a British made garment/footwear) I think its important to give a discerning nod or pass comment.

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