David Keyte, head honcho over at Universal Works, has been kind enough to take a bit of time out from his busy schedule and answer some questions regarding his background in the industry, his current brand and his plans for the future.
Cheers David, and I hope you readers enjoy!
1) When did you decide you wanted to work in the fashion industry?
When I was 11 and left junior school and I was about to start "big" school, I forced my parents into giving me the money they would spend on my uniform and allow me to buy it myself. I knew early on I had a definte look I wanted! I also did a paper round so I could add to the money and buy better things. My mum was just not understanding the importance of good loafers!
2) I notice that you worked for Paul Smith. In what capacity did you work there and how has it helped you in establishing Universal Works as a brand?
I started working in the original Store in Nottingham and worked my way up (it was a small company back then) and eventually I was Production Manager for all product with a dozen staff.
3) You've also worked with Margaret Howell and Albam – what role did you fulfill when you worked for them?
After leaving Paul Smith I did a number of freelance projects on production , sourcing and product development. One of the companies I worked with then was Margaret Howell. It was very managment based and not all all a design brief.
With Albam it was quite different. I was really just helping them with a number of things from sourcing to design but those guys have their own look and I was really just helping them. They are young guys starting out in the industry and I had known them for a while and was simply passing on some experience.
4) Out of the names you have worked with, which of these would you say has had the biggest influence on your designs for Universal Works?
It sounds conceited but no one. Certainly Paul Smith and a designer who worked with him called Derek Morton were a huge influence and I have great admiration for them both. But really the way my grandfather dresses is more of an influence on my designs than any fashion designer.
5) What made you decide to establish your own label?
I had moved back to Nottingham from London and after 25 years of working on someone's else designs the timing just seemed right to start my own line. I guess you would say circumstances and timing. Sometimes these things just happen.
6) What year did you set up Universal Works? What steps did you have to take in order to do so?
Blimey, have you got a while?!
It would take a few pages to talk about the steps to setting it all up, but I decided in early November 2008 to start the company. We worked with some very supportive factories, made patterns in days with a good friend of mine and with my wife put together a 45 piece collection using stock fabrics and yarns. After some crazy days I had a sample collection ready for the middle of January 2009 , and we started delivering that first collection in July 2009.
7) Was it a risky move to establish your own label or did you feel prepared and confident when doing so?
Well I don't come from a wealthy background and I don't have a rich benefactor so certainly it's risky starting your own business. However it helps to focus the mind when you know designing a bad collection or your company not providing great service will mean that the bank will own your house and you will be sleeping on mate's sofas - not a good idea for a man of my age!
8) How would you describe the philosophy behind Universal Works?
It's about good, honest clothes for blokes (although we do have a few girl fans too!). I wanted the clothing to be a great fit with great detail and fabrics. I want it to be interesting but also allow the wearer to express themselves and not me. It's simple but stylish and easy to care for and a price that would not kill you either.
Oh yeah, and trying to get guys to stop wearing tight jeans!
9) How time consuming is running your own clothing label?
It's totally time consuming - I have not been to a Villa game two seasons!
The only non work thing I seem to do these days is trying to keep up my running (I'm trying to train for a half marathon) but right now the brand takes up most of my waking hours, which is maybe not too healthy but I love it.
10) Universal Works is not found in many of the country's shops. Have you deliberately limited the number of stockists?
We don't want to grow too fast and we want to be loyal to the stockists who have supported us from the beginning so that does restrict us to some extent. We have a few now in the UK and we're growing in Japan and the USA. Like many new companies we do want to grow but carefully and slowly. We are no in any rush to be rich – we're just happy to enjoy the day
11) Many of Universal Works' clothes are produced in small factories. Does this help to ensure a better quality product?
The production in smaller factories was really because I hate mass production. I know it has its place in the world - I guess my mobile is better made in a big Chinese factory than anywhere else, but I love the smaller hand skilled, more "touchy feely" places where people make a difference and I can talk to the people sewing or knitting things.
Really I know that often big factories can mean great quality not poor quality, but the items quickly become soulless. Let's face it, my mobile has no soul - I think Universal Works' clothes do have soul.
12) Producing in smaller factories typically means that the end product will be more expensive. Despite this, a lot of Universal Works' garments are still relatively affordable. Have you deliberately kept it this way? If so, why?
We keep our overheads as low as possible and try to pass on any savings into the retail price. It's called "Universal" in part because I want it to be affordable and not elitist due to price, not that everyone will like the style but it should not be simply about me making money but also about good honest clothing at realistic prices.
13) Would you say there is a "secret" to designing a great piece of clothing?
Not really – just ask yourself a few questions.
Would you wear it to the local pub and feel comfortable in it?
Will it survive the washing machine?
Does it look good?
We might not need fashion but since we kind of have to wear clothes then they should look good as well as perform and fit well. It always helps if they are comfortable too.
14) Where do you draw your inspiration for your designs from?
Mostly my Uncle Bill (now he could dress!). My grandfather, too, was a mean dresser on the Saturday night.
15) What are the steps taken that see an item of clothing going from a sketch to actually being produced? How long does this process take?
It's basically a four to five month process to the final sample we show to the retailer, then another five to six months before it is in store. In between the sketch to the final sample we go throught stages such as pattern making, prototype and importantly sample correction.
16) Do you have a favourite collection you have produced? Do you have a preference to producing summer or winter collections?
The last collection is always the favourite. Actually, no that's wrong. It's the next one, cos thats always going to even better.
17) What is your favourite piece of clothing you have designed, before or during your time with Universal Works?
The Knit Work Jacket was the first piece of knitwear in the first collection of Universal Works – it's still in the collection for winter 2010 and its' still my favourite design.
18) What labels do you wear aside from your own?
These days it is all my own - it's just easier that way.
19) Are there any other designers or labels which you greatly admire?
There are many - Margella, Comme des Garcons, Junya Watanabe, Massimo Osti, 45 RPM, Margaret Howell. But mostly the clothes I most admire are on old guys I randomly see in the street!
20) What are your plans for the future of Universal Works? What can we expect from the winter collection?
My plans are to keep improving the pieces we design and produce and hopefully enjoying what we do. As for winter 2010, I'll send you a preview.
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