Icons - Robert De Niro

Few people have a stronger claim to being the greatest actor of all time than New York native Robert De Niro. A double Academy Award winner, De Niro's CV cannot be described as anything other than brilliant. Indeed for nearly two decades, from the 1970s to the early 1990s, he hardly put a foot wrong.

Forging a great working relationship with the legendary Martin Scorsese, De Niro's performances in New Hollywood-era productions such as Mean Streets, Taxi Driver and Raging Bull have gone on to become the stuff of cinematic legend. Such was his huge committment to nailing any role he was asked to fulfill, De Niro put on seventy pounds in four months so as to accurately portray the state of Jake "The Raging Bull" La Motta in his post-boxing years.

It wasn't just his output with Scorsese which was incredible. When you consider his performances in The Godfather: Part II (my all time favourite) and The Deer Hunter (where clothing obsessives will notice his stunning Sierra Designs parka) you begin to realise that De Niro is quite simply cut from a different cloth.

Able to pull off the swaggering upstart (Mean Streets), the 'family' man (The Godfather Part II), the loner (Taxi Driver) and the unfulfilled talent (Raging Bull) with equal conviction, De Niro has also dabbled with musicals (New York, New York) and darkly comic masterpieces (The King of Comedy).

While his most recent output hasn't been of the same standard there is no doubt that De Niro is an icon of the big screen. With a burgeoning career as a director and another Scorsese lined up for the near future we certainly haven't seen the last of this man.

Selected Filmography
Hi, Mom! (1970)
Mean Streets (1973)
The Godfather: Part II (1974)
Taxi Driver (1976)
The Last Tycoon (1976)
The Deer Hunter (1978)
Raging Bull (1980)
The King of Comedy (1983)
Once Upon a Time in America (1984)
Brazil (1985)
The Untouchables (1987)
Goodfellas (1990)
Cape Fear (1991)
A Bronx Tale (1992)
Casino (1995)
Heat (1995)
Jackie Brown (1997)

Sierra Designs Vintage Range

The 60/40 parka is an iconic piece of outdoor clothing, having been pioneered by several mountaineering brands in the 1970s. Donned famously by the supercool Robert De Niro in The Deer Hunter, these parkas have inspired numerous contemporary jackets. Yet despite their huge influence it remains remarkably difficult to get your hands on one of them.

Perhaps the greatest of all of the brands who produced these parkas back in the day is Sierra Designs, a label which has been producing clothing as far back as 1965. While their popularity has faded stateside they are huge in Japan where fantastic parkas are still being produced and lapped up by the style obsessed Japanese. These parkas are impossible to buy outside of Japan so either have to be imported (at a very expensive cost) or a vintage number can be found on eBay from time to time.

Sounds difficult, you say?

It is.

Perhaps it isn't very surprising that these 60/40 parkas (interestingly actually 58% cotton and 42% nylon but rounded for convenience) are no longer being produced. All things considered the likes of Sierra Designs, Woolrich and REI are not fashion labels. They specialise in and cater to an outdoors market which wants the best and most functional materials to be used in their jackets. 60/40, while no doubt fantastic at the time, is no longer the best out there because like everything else materials evolved. There are better mixes out there for doing the job.

However very few (if indeed any) of the new jackets released by these brands to the North American and European markets actually look anywhere near as good as 60/40 parkas released in their heyday. It is because of this that, having been in contact with someone working at Sierra Designs, I was delighted to hear that Sierra Designs are going to be unveiling a new 'Vintage' range of clothing in which a 60/40 parka will feature. I was assured that the quality and style of the new jackets will not be compromised on and so I look forward to seeing this range when it is released. Fingers crossed that they will look as good as the originals and that I will be able to get my hands on an iconic piece of outerwear.

Label or Look?

It's a question that many of those in the know will ask themselves and no doubt the answer can be very dependent upon your age and circumstances at the time of asking. A large number of older lads have ditched the Italian labels they used to love (Stone Island, C.P. Company, Armani, Paul & Shark etc.) and are now more focusing on the appearance of the clothes as much as the label who produce it. Indeed, with the present financial crisis and the decline in most people's disposable income many are now looking to get an outfit for a figure that they may have previously spent on one single jacket.

Value is becoming the order of the day.

Personally I have been into my clothes for a while now but being just sixteen and having no official job means that I've always had to keep an eye open for bargains and go much more for the look than for the label. Only last winter there was a Stone Island parka released which really took my fancy but at present I'm not in the financial situation to spend anything close to what it retailed at on one single jacket.

So I look elsewhere.

One of the jackets which I've been most taken by recently is a Schott NYC Mountain Parka which came in a stunning apple green colour and will be released next summer. Schott isn't a brand I would usually look at but having bumped into it when I did the rounds over the internet blogs, it immediately took my fancy. Although I've been informed that it's perceived as a label for the more "flamboyant" fellas in cities such as New York and Paris, it doesn't hold that status in the UK and given the fact it is a brand not often associated with lads, it will retain a degree of exclusivity as well.

There are certain people who claim to have favoured the look over the label for a long time (see those who wear Blue Harbour jeans) but I've never really been a fan of cutting corners on an outfit. Sure, I may not be able to afford that Nigel Cabourn or that Engineered Garments piece but I'll look to the forums, auction sites and if needs be, other brands such as Penfield or Fjällräven.

I hate high street fashion and, in general, anything that can be too easily obtained. This may seem ridiculously snobbish and may come across as me being up myself but it's just the way it is – the way I am. It may be a different kettle of fish for items which I wear less; I've heard good things of GAP chinos and I do wear Blue Harbour cargo shorts in the summer. However when it comes to anything that I'll be wearing more than a handful of times I'll try and keep an eye out for a bargain and not to compromise on quality too much.

It was interesting to see the reaction of a number of like minded individuals when they were asked about this stuff which is going to be released by high street store and bastion of all things funboy, Topman. I, myself, have to admit that some of it doesn't look too bad. But that's just where the problem lies.

It may look fine but how long will it last? The fact that it is mass produced doesn't necessarily mean that it is bad quality but as David Keyte said to me in an interview I did with him, it means that it has no 'soul'. With things like a piece of knitwear or a pair of hiking boots I am looking for something with longevity, and something that won't be worn by every man and his dog.

I also don't like the way in which several brands are having their own designs recycled and rehashed by larger companies. For instance the Albam fisherman's cagoule has been done to fuckery now with everyone from French Connection to Weekend Offender (cringe) copying it without having any aim of putting their own slant upon it. There is a fine line to be walked between drawing inspiration from something and just downright 'stealing' from it. They'll make a quick buck on these jackets no doubt, but it won't be my buck.

So what is it for me?

Personally it's just not as simple as saying 'look' or 'label'. One doesn't really take priority over the other. I've seen some pretty horrible stuff released by some pretty good labels. It'd be very good quality but would I wear it? Would I, fuck! On the other hand I've seen some reasonably appealing stuff released by high street stores but if the quality isn't there, than neither am I. It has to look right and it has to be of a good quality. This can be achieved without breaking the bank and so I don't prioritise either. Instead I try and understand the importance of both and strike a balance whilst always keeping an eye open for a bargain.

Penfield AW10 Preview

The prospect of winter is something that always excites me. Gone are the days of sweating excessively and uncomfortably and back are heavy coats, knitwear and plaid shirts. I make no secret of the fact that I'm more comfortable in colder conditions and layering up increases the number of outfits you can pull off. The design of winter jackets is also often more quirky and interesting than the unlined efforts that are the standard in the warmer months.

One brand that specialises in winter clothing is New England's very own Penfield, a label which is famed for the down-filled outerwear they have been producing as far back as 1975. The appeal of Penfield's clothing is pretty apparent straight away – it looks good, it's functional and it is always relatively inexpensive to acquire, especially in the sales.

What's not to like?

Well, judging by this sneak preview of their forthcoming winter collection, not a lot. In fact it looks pretty much spot on.

Below are images of three jackets from Penfield's new collection, which is available to preorder from Hanon.

Part of the Penfield Trailwear range, the Danville is an insulated trail jacket featuring two lower angled pockets and two front chest pockets. The jacket will be available in three colours – khaki tweed, black and navy. The non-tweed colours have an outershell made of Penfield Hudson wax cloth, which has been developed for it's waterproof, windproof and drying properties as well as for increased breathability. On the khaki version, the tweed outer is 65% wool and 35% viscose. Expect the black and navy efforts to set you back £150 and the tweed to weigh in at £200.

Returning once again is the Kasson jacket, an effort clearly inspired by the mountain parkas designed in the 1970s by renowned outdoor clothing companies such as Columbia, REI and Woolrich. This four pocket parka is, as you would expect, 60% cotton and 40% nylon and is part of the Trailwear range, just like the Danville. This rugged jacket has a teflon fabric protection to ensure that it is waterproof as well as other features designed for keeping you warm and dry in bad weather conditions. A nice feature is the check lining which is no doubt an ode to the classic parkas of the 1970s. Available in black, khaki green and navy, the Kasson will cost £120.

The Farlstad jacket is included in the Penfield Classic range and is available (once again) in black, navy and khaki green (albeit slightly darker than the other khakis). A water resistant field jacket, the Farlstad has the Penfield Hudson wax cloth outershell as one of it's features. In addition to this it also boasts an internal windstopper panel, two front angles hand pockets and an arm patch logo in a similar style to Fjällräven. The middle of the bunch in regards to price, the Farlstad will cost you £140.

Budget Shopping: Denim

Some people spend countless hundreds of pounds on the latest jacket or a pair of expensive footwear – amounts that most normal people would consider nothing short of weird. Personally I don’t find it all that unusual. Indeed, there have been numerous occasions where the “weird” label has been thrown at me once people have discovered how much I spent on a certain shirt or jacket. Paying good money is the consequence of wanting to look good and this applies to every part of the outfit in my view. It’s because of this that I find it a tad bemusing that some people will spend hundreds of pounds on their latest high tech Stone Island shimmer jacket or Nigel Cabourn’s new effort and countless on a pair of second hand trainers off the net yet display an unwavering reluctance to spend anything sizeable on a pair of jeans. For me what you’ve got on your legs is as important as what you’ve got on your feet or over your polo or shirt. It sets off the look and keeps everything appearing as it should.

In my mind it is really worth going to town on your denim and buying selvedge or unwashed jeans is definitely the ideal option but some people just aren’t willing to do this. Here are three ways to keep your legs looking smart and hold your outfit together without breaking the bank. You’ll never have to buy a pair of jeans from Marks & Spencer’s again!

Levi’s
Every man has probably had a pair of Levi’s jeans in their wardrobe at one point or another. There’s a very valid reason for this; they’re absolute style classics. Without a doubt the most iconic jean ever produced, Levi 501’s are certainly not the best jeans out there but for the price they are arguably the best value out there. Pretty much every jean you can think of owes an awful lot to Levi’s. Widely available and often obtainable for around the £40 mark, Levi’s come in a wide range of styles for all shapes and sizes. They won’t last forever but provided you avoid the multipocket versions favoured by street types, you won’t go wrong.

Uniqlo
Boasting fourteen stores in the UK (all in Greater London), Uniqlo is hugely popular with pretty much everyone at the minute. However, don’t allow this to put you off. There’s nothing really wrong with their jeans. They’re modelled on the classics (rightly so) and last year they produced their own selvedge denim which retailed in at £35, reducing by a further £15 in the sales. I’ve a pair myself and they’re definitely worth that. They won’t have the longevity you get with the more premium brands but if you’re still reading this, this probably won’t bother you too much.

eBay
One other option open to you is to head over to the world’s largest auction site and see what’s going there. eBay can be a frustrating place at times to say the least but your patience can, every now and then, be rewarded handsomely. I’ve had all sorts of bargains with my denim on there, having picked up a couple of selvedge efforts for less than a score each. You may be forced to go second hand but if you’re willing to fork out a huge amount on a second hand pair of deadstock trainers then forking out considerably less on a pair of jeans doesn’t seem that bad really. Do your research a bit as well. See what Super Denim or Oi Polloi is stocking. Often a lot of these brands are fairly unknown and therefore can stay under the radar which will limit the amount of money you have to spend quite nicely.

An Evening Down the Pub

I spent yesterday evening down the pub in town and sampled a few cask ales which were on offer. I've only started to get into my ale recently but I'm already beginning to appreciate the increased flavour which you usually get with good beer as opposed to mass produced, watered down lagers.

The first ale I sampled happened to the best out of the bunch. I've been impressed with Cornish ales (Doom Bar etc.) previously and this time a pint of Tribute from St. Austell brewery once again proved to be a hit. The beer is very well regarded and has gained many awards as well as being consistently voted as one of Britain's Top Ten Cask Ales. Originally called Daylight Robbery, Tribute is now named as such as a tribute to the 1999 solar eclipse. The beer is bronze in colour and has delicious malty and citrus fruit flavours throughout. A great beer!

Next up was a 2010 speciality beer from Bateman's brewery – England Expects (more than that shite). The ale was another nice sup - easy to drink and amber in colour, the beer had a pleasant hoppy flavour which was a nice contrast to the more fruity Tribute I drank earlier.

Finally I had a pint from Welsh based brewery Brains. I sampled the Brains SA, which is one of their more famous bitters. The beer had a nutty edge to it but there was something that stopped me from enjoying it as much as I had the previous two. Perhaps it was overly dry, who knows? Whatever it was didn't make it an unpleasant beer, I just preferred the previous two.

After another two pints of Tribute, I stumbled home – ever so slightly pissed.

Preview - Universal Works 2010 Winter Collection

David Keyte has sent me a few photos of the forthcoming Universal Works winter collection. It definitely looks like a collection to a keep an eye on, with the parka style jacket being my particular favourite.

Anyway here are the photos:

Interview - David Keyte (Universal Works)

David Keyte, head honcho over at Universal Works, has been kind enough to take a bit of time out from his busy schedule and answer some questions regarding his background in the industry, his current brand and his plans for the future.

Cheers David, and I hope you readers enjoy!

1) When did you decide you wanted to work in the fashion industry?
When I was 11 and left junior school and I was about to start "big" school, I forced my parents into giving me the money they would spend on my uniform and allow me to buy it myself. I knew early on I had a definte look I wanted! I also did a paper round so I could add to the money and buy better things. My mum was just not understanding the importance of good loafers!

2) I notice that you worked for Paul Smith. In what capacity did you work there and how has it helped you in establishing Universal Works as a brand?
I started working in the original Store in Nottingham and worked my way up (it was a small company back then) and eventually I was Production Manager for all product with a dozen staff.

3) You've also worked with Margaret Howell and Albam – what role did you fulfill when you worked for them?
After leaving Paul Smith I did a number of freelance projects on production , sourcing and product development. One of the companies I worked with then was Margaret Howell. It was very managment based and not all all a design brief.

With Albam it was quite different. I was really just helping them with a number of things from sourcing to design but those guys have their own look and I was really just helping them. They are young guys starting out in the industry and I had known them for a while and was simply passing on some experience.

4) Out of the names you have worked with, which of these would you say has had the biggest influence on your designs for Universal Works?
It sounds conceited but no one. Certainly Paul Smith and a designer who worked with him called Derek Morton were a huge influence and I have great admiration for them both. But really the way my grandfather dresses is more of an influence on my designs than any fashion designer.

5) What made you decide to establish your own label?
I had moved back to Nottingham from London and after 25 years of working on someone's else designs the timing just seemed right to start my own line. I guess you would say circumstances and timing. Sometimes these things just happen.

6) What year did you set up Universal Works? What steps did you have to take in order to do so?
Blimey, have you got a while?!

It would take a few pages to talk about the steps to setting it all up, but I decided in early November 2008 to start the company. We worked with some very supportive factories, made patterns in days with a good friend of mine and with my wife put together a 45 piece collection using stock fabrics and yarns. After some crazy days I had a sample collection ready for the middle of January 2009 , and we started delivering that first collection in July 2009.

7) Was it a risky move to establish your own label or did you feel prepared and confident when doing so?
Well I don't come from a wealthy background and I don't have a rich benefactor so certainly it's risky starting your own business. However it helps to focus the mind when you know designing a bad collection or your company not providing great service will mean that the bank will own your house and you will be sleeping on mate's sofas - not a good idea for a man of my age!

8) How would you describe the philosophy behind Universal Works?
It's about good, honest clothes for blokes (although we do have a few girl fans too!). I wanted the clothing to be a great fit with great detail and fabrics. I want it to be interesting but also allow the wearer to express themselves and not me. It's simple but stylish and easy to care for and a price that would not kill you either.

Oh yeah, and trying to get guys to stop wearing tight jeans!

9) How time consuming is running your own clothing label?
It's totally time consuming - I have not been to a Villa game two seasons!

The only non work thing I seem to do these days is trying to keep up my running (I'm trying to train for a half marathon) but right now the brand takes up most of my waking hours, which is maybe not too healthy but I love it.

10) Universal Works is not found in many of the country's shops. Have you deliberately limited the number of stockists?
We don't want to grow too fast and we want to be loyal to the stockists who have supported us from the beginning so that does restrict us to some extent. We have a few now in the UK and we're growing in Japan and the USA. Like many new companies we do want to grow but carefully and slowly. We are no in any rush to be rich – we're just happy to enjoy the day

11) Many of Universal Works' clothes are produced in small factories. Does this help to ensure a better quality product?
The production in smaller factories was really because I hate mass production. I know it has its place in the world - I guess my mobile is better made in a big Chinese factory than anywhere else, but I love the smaller hand skilled, more "touchy feely" places where people make a difference and I can talk to the people sewing or knitting things.

Really I know that often big factories can mean great quality not poor quality, but the items quickly become soulless. Let's face it, my mobile has no soul - I think Universal Works' clothes do have soul.

12) Producing in smaller factories typically means that the end product will be more expensive. Despite this, a lot of Universal Works' garments are still relatively affordable. Have you deliberately kept it this way? If so, why?
We keep our overheads as low as possible and try to pass on any savings into the retail price. It's called "Universal" in part because I want it to be affordable and not elitist due to price, not that everyone will like the style but it should not be simply about me making money but also about good honest clothing at realistic prices.

13) Would you say there is a "secret" to designing a great piece of clothing?
Not really – just ask yourself a few questions.

Would you wear it to the local pub and feel comfortable in it?

Will it survive the washing machine?

Does it look good?

We might not need fashion but since we kind of have to wear clothes then they should look good as well as perform and fit well. It always helps if they are comfortable too.

14) Where do you draw your inspiration for your designs from?
Mostly my Uncle Bill (now he could dress!). My grandfather, too, was a mean dresser on the Saturday night.

15) What are the steps taken that see an item of clothing going from a sketch to actually being produced? How long does this process take?
It's basically a four to five month process to the final sample we show to the retailer, then another five to six months before it is in store. In between the sketch to the final sample we go throught stages such as pattern making, prototype and importantly sample correction.

16) Do you have a favourite collection you have produced? Do you have a preference to producing summer or winter collections?
The last collection is always the favourite. Actually, no that's wrong. It's the next one, cos thats always going to even better.

17) What is your favourite piece of clothing you have designed, before or during your time with Universal Works?
The Knit Work Jacket was the first piece of knitwear in the first collection of Universal Works – it's still in the collection for winter 2010 and its' still my favourite design.

18) What labels do you wear aside from your own?
These days it is all my own - it's just easier that way.

19) Are there any other designers or labels which you greatly admire?
There are many - Margella, Comme des Garcons, Junya Watanabe, Massimo Osti, 45 RPM, Margaret Howell. But mostly the clothes I most admire are on old guys I randomly see in the street!

20) What are your plans for the future of Universal Works? What can we expect from the winter collection?
My plans are to keep improving the pieces we design and produce and hopefully enjoying what we do. As for winter 2010, I'll send you a preview.

Last Film Watched... - Memento

Directed by Christopher Nolan (The Prestige, The Dark Knight), "Memento" is adapted from a short story called "Memento Mori" which itself is written by Jonathan Nolan, Christopher's brother. The film stars Guy Pearce, Joe Pantoliano and Carrie-Anne Moss while it also makes use of a unique, interesting and innovative way of displaying the plot.

Throughout the film we learn more about the story of Leonard Shelby (Pearce), a man intent on gaining revenge for his wife's brutal murder – an event which not only left him a widow but also prevents him from retaining any new memories following the incident. As a result of this Leonard makes use of notes, tattoos and polaroid photographs to keep track of who is who and what is what in his life. Helping him with his task are barmaid Natalie (Moss) and the mysterious Teddy (Pantoliano) though as the story develops we are forced to question whether their help is at all beneficial.

"Memento" represents Nolan's first step as a director of a major motion picture, and it is a very assured one. Evidently inspired by film noirs of eras gone by, "Memento" is a very cold film – something that some may claim is to it's detriment. Nolan's pioneering direction helps to maintain interest and your attention throughout the film's 116 minute running time.

It is smart, suspenseful and far from simple but "Memento" is definitely a must see film. Guy Pearce, a hugely underrated actor, gives a great performance as the obsessive Leonard while the supporting cast cannot be faulted. The labyrinth plot can be seen however you want it and should you invest the time in rewatching the film, you will not be unrewarded due to the huge number of interpretations that can be drawn.

Find it, buy it and watch it.

4.5/5

Perfecto by Schott NYC Mountain Parka

You can't beat a good parka in my eyes – they're an essential for every man's wardrobe. I'm therefore fortunate to have such a range to choose from at present with nearly every brand worth looking at boasting their own twist on this classic design.

One brand that I wouldn't have expected myself to look at is Schott NYC. However their mountain parka for the spring of 2011 looks very promising indeed, coming in a very nice khaki green colour.

Schott have described it:

"The original jacket was popular in the late 60s early 70s. Our 30 ½” self lined version is made from our dead stock 60/40 nylon cotton poplin and features gold hardware."

While there are other brands I'd certainly look towards first for this style of jacket, it may be worthwhile keeping an eye on this piece to see what it retails at because it may very well be a relative bargain compared to other brands.

Note: The following photos have been taken from Selectism.

Interview - Kenneth Mackenzie (6876)

The latest in my series of interviews is with Kenneth Mackenzie, designer and founder of popular clothing label 6876 – a brand famous for its focus on quality and fabric innovation.

Cheers to Kenneth for the interview.

What is your background (if any) in the design / clothing industry?
Originally I studied graphics and then fashion and I worked at various magazines and design companies on internships. After graduating I worked as sales director at Duffer of St George for five years.

I've noticed that 6876 is named such due to the 1968 student riots in France and the emergence of punk. Do you therefore feel that 6876 has a certain rebelliousness about it and doesn't go about things in the conventional way?
Yes it was more a mentality than any stylistic details as well as the fact that these movements were a great influence on me. However i also had this view that the concentration had to be on the product and the brand, not specifically me as i hated all the ego-led fashion mentality of naming a brand after yourself. Check Run DMC Rock Box for the best put down of CK.

Why did you want to set up your own clothing label?
Basically i didn't really want to work for other people anymore and i thought i might have something to offer. Of course you never really know.

What is the ethos behind 6876?
That it is an independent company with good product, interesting concepts and it is fairly priced. Above all its a pooling of ideas and people with a modernist mindset.

Where are 6876 garments produced?
Currently they are produced in Portugal, Slovakia and the UK. Previously we have produced in Italy as well.

Is 6876 popular across the globe or is it a brand which is predominantly popular within the UK?
We have a good UK following but there is also a strong market in Scandinavia, Japan and the USA.

A lot of your clothing is popular with the football casual. Why do you think this is?
I'm not too sure but I think the casual scene has a loyalty towards its brands and doesn't tend to be dictated to by anyone. I think they are keen to wear and search out smaller, less marketed brands.

6876 is relatively hard to find due to the limited number of retailers who carry it. Has this been a deliberate move and what benefits does it carry with it?
It's a complex situation. We found it very difficult to continue the twice yearly collection system and also i felt it was becoming outdated so we moved to rolling product and decided to work on more collaborative projects. However sometimes it is tricky to find the correct manufacturers so it takes time to release product and we have our own online store so it is not in our interests to sell to a large amount of retailers.

Would you ever want to see 6876 become a larger brand or are you keen to maintain it as a small label?
If the situation was correct then yes I'd like to change the way we work but sometimes "the grass is always greener" mentality isn't necessarily so simple.

Where does the inspiration for your designs come from?
That's a huge question! Inspiration is taken from military, work wear, vintage sportswear and re-interpreting classic items. It's so hard to pin point as it is so personal and sometimes it might just be a fabric that sets off an idea or a reaction to move in an opposite direction. As for my obscure references maybe that's better left to another time but it could be a photograph or a film – anything.

What has been your favourite item that you have designed?
The ones that don't sell! In the old days my favourites didn't always sell. It's hard to choose as there's now different eras as in a smarter look, a more sportswear look etc.

A jacket that will come back as i feel it can be done better is a double Harrington we made in Italy around 2000. It's basically two complete jackets that button together and quite a few friends have it and are always telling me to re-issue it. Anyway i am on a 90's 6876 head at the moment. It's odd as people ask always ask when particular jackets are from and i sometimes forget they are ten years old.

6876 has become renowned for technical innovation in many of its designs. Have you always been interested in researching and implementing new fabrics?
The fabrics have always been key to the brand and it's one of the parts of designing that is the most interesting to me. I have a huge admiration for the real innovators in the textile area.

What other designers / labels do you admire?
There's brands that I admire for different reasons but unfortunately they are too indepth to list here. Among them are Patagonia, RRL, Filson, Vintage REI, Yoshida Porter and Alden. On a more fashion head there's Margiela, Dries Van Noten and Junya Watanabe. Plus there's just certain stores that I like – Old England in Paris, Kapital in Tokyo, Farlows in London. I also have many military and workwear items.

Following your recent collaboration with the Regent Belt Company, can we expect more collaborations with other labels in the future?
We have one major collaboration with a technical outwear company for AW11 which is going to be very good... but I can't reveal yet.

The Capandula jacket was an enormous success and has now become a very rare item. Are there any plans to "reissue" certain jackets in the future or is the focus on constantly evolving the designs?
It is only in last few years that I've become comfortable with the idea that i have a relatively large back catalogue and that at times it is okay to delve into that so now I think there's a marriage of newer designs and some re-interpretations.

What can we expect from the forthcoming winter collection?
Most of the collection is made in the UK with very high quality Military Barathea's so although modernist in design, it has a classic 6876 more clothing than sportswear feel. Although it's NOT Heritage in feel, in anyway shape or form - death to fake Heritage!

What are your future plans for 6876?
To get our production facilities running more smoothly so that we can release more product and make sure the two joint brands are successful.

Recent Purchase - Casual Connoisseur "Bulldog Bobby" Tee

Not a purchase as such, the latest addition to my wardrobe comes as a gift from the good chaps over at the Casual Connoisseur following the interview earlier this week.

This, like all of the Casual Connoisseur's tees, is produced in England and made of heavyweight cotton. The tee pays homage to England's 1982 World Cup mascot, Bulldog Bobby, but in a clever reworking Bobby's ditched his England shirt and shorts in favour of a classic casual look – Lyle & Scott v-neck jumper, brown corduroy trousers and Adidas trainers (modelled on the Tahiti).


It's an original design, great fit and comes with the usual Connoisseur quality.

Thanks and hats off chaps!

Tune of the Day - "Tell me what you see..."

I've got a bit of an obsession, so to speak, with Wigan's finest band at the minute. Having recently discovered the Verve or Verve's (as they were then known) second album A Northern Soul, I have been struggling to turn it off or get any of its majestically rousing songs out of my head.

Having been previously grabbed by the epic "History", it is now "On Your Own" drawing my gaze. What both tunes have in common is that they lack the chaotically brilliant guitars found on most of the album's tracks, yet this is compensated by an achingly reflective tone to the songs – a tone which is enhanced by the simple acoustic guitarplay of Nick McCabe. Ashcroft's intimate vocals later descend into a high pitched falsetto which sympolises his yearning for an end to the loneliness portrayed in the song.

It's an undisputed masterpiece.

Interview - The Casual Connoisseur

Another day and another interview.

This time the interview is with Tom from the Casual Connoisseur, a clothing label based in Greater Manchester. The label has already been enormously succesful, establishing itself as one of the leaders in the "casual" tee market as well as diversifying into other areas such as hats, scarves and even calendars!

I'd like to thank Tom for the interview and hope that you all enjoy reading it.

Where can I buy The Casual Connoisseur clothes?
First and foremost everything we do is available through our website. We also have a few selected stockists out there. We're proud to be in Ran in both Liverpool and Manchester. In Originals in Barnsley, Bloc3 Hull and were in our own town at Schindler (unfortunately recently ceased trading) as well as being far away as Russia. We've been in other places too and it may vary currently depending on who's ordering what. We could do with a couple more perhaps north of the border and south of the gap.

We deliberately choose to limit stockists and have never chased anyone to stock our product, people have asked us. Some may think it's ludicrous or silly but we've turned down several offers of stockists and not renewed with others in the past. We may one day live to regret that but it was our choice. This is totally our own preference mind. Whilst we love the interest and the fact people want our brand, we want to remain that bit more exclusive and elusive and not be over saturated and everywhere!

Do you have a background in the clothing or design industry?
Not officially in either. My brother and I are pretty obsessive and creative types. My father worked in advertising for many years and growing up we both had access to a mine of the best graphic materials from letraset, magic markers and layout pads (it was the 80's!). You would find us lying on the front room floor scribbling away as much as you would playing football in the street when we were kids and we were known for being keen artists as youngsters. We would have probably followed in the same footsteps but circumstances changed and we left college prematurely (which may be something we should have stuck with in hindsight, although the course was rubbish).

I've actually designed my town team's (Stockport County) home strip for the 2006-07 season and have since worked on a consultation basis for the ones which followed. I have a keen eye for details and what works, especially with graphics and logos.

We've created and edit our own websites and I think they look pretty smooth for a self taught background. My brother had put his mark on several things through his freelance design work, including maintaining one or two commercial sites, and the likes of commercially released book covers, event flyers, publishers and media, as well as working for the likes of Proper Magazine and even 80's Casuals too.

He (and me too, but more-so him) has amassed a rather unhealthy collection of outerwear and clothing, of course shoes too, havinghad a background in that field working for over five years in a shoe shop, (my longest career step was working as a manager for a high street video chain for around five or six years). He has a keen eye for construction and detail and his plans to help take us to the next level would probably need some professional help. Despite this, it's fair to say we have an idea of what we want and where we want to take this. Getting there is part of the fun and can be difficult but we've always maintained we'll be a self sufficient brand.

Have you ever designed for other clothing labels aside from The Casual Connoisseur?
As I said, our kid often gets asked to do one or two designs for the 80's Casuals brand including the likes of their "Bexie", "Osti" and the more recent "Pills and Thrills" tee which was apparently one of their bestsellers yet. He also came up with their logo.

I personally haven't done any clothing work but done logos, flyers, websites and other more boring corporate stuff for a range of people.

There's my brother and I involved in the design process although we will use outside contributions and collaborators when possible or when required. For example, we have used a Leeds based artist Retro-skull-duggery on a few tee designs and also have section76 on board with various collaborations.

How would you describe your label?
Alternative and original. We try to be as different as possible, we're obsessed with film, music, clothes as well as the football so try and get that across with what we're doing.

What prompted you to set up your own clothing label?
I started making random t-shirts for myself and then friends in my bedroom out of boredom whilst in a mundane job. I used to look at things and think, "that would look good on a tee - why has no one done it before?" and then do it myself as a one off.

I am a big fan of A Clockwork Orange and was fed up of the lack of good stuff available. It was always the same one or two images so I did a few of my own tees. It totally grew from that. If ever I had one on, I'd get asked where it was from and started to see a possible avenue to explore, especially when I was in town and shop managers were asking me about something I'd made myself; asking where it was from and what brand it was - that's when I saw the potential. In around 2006 I was chatting with a friend who was to become the business partner and we started to look at it a bit more seriously, discussing where we could take it and looking at ways of getting out there.

I'd just fucked off the dreadful mundane job so there was a new motivation involved in getting it off the ground and having a good old go.

But to answer the main point, the lack of stuff we wanted to see really. Initially on a tee but it's true now as we do more, we still maintain we want to do our own thing and offer something alternative and hopefully fresh.

Where does the inspiration for prospective designs come from?
Everywhere! If I could I'd release a tee design every week, such is the wealth of ideas we have through all sorts of inspirations in the world.


Was there a financial risk in setting up the Casual Connoisseur? If so, what precautions did you have to take?
No, because we didn't have much money between us it was a case of being self-sufficient right from the off. It was a case of what we put in initially we get back and from then on we grow by what we're doing and run it soundly, without ever getting into debt or trouble. It would take time from the beginning but we're doing it properly and using hard graft. We've never thrown money at it, mainly because we've not had the money to throw at it. We've come from a working class background. We reap what we sow. If we're busy and successful as we have been thus far then we can continue to grow and progress further offering new products and ideas as we go.

Where are Casual Connoisseur products manufactured?
We have our tees produced locally in Greater Manchester. They supply us with our t-shirts and do the screen printing there aswell. They are a long established company who produce stuff for many different types and certain brands aswell - I believe they also produce stuff for a certain emo/trendy brand who've recently turned over millions.

The Weir hat was produced by a company in Nottingham, and all our labels are woven by a company in Lancashire and another company in Sussex. Our polo shirts are also produced in England. Everything we do is produced in the UK, unless that's not possible.

Is it important to maintain a close relationship with the factories that manufacture your products?
We need to have a good working relationship for sure. Some are easier than others - we put something in and it comes back totally spot on first time, which is a joy. Others we are back and forth with and have the odd discrepancy with, but it all usually works out. Sometimes it's a gamble; we will always require a sample up front and do our own 'quality control' tests with any new stuff, i.e. worn and washed, ironed and dried. You occasionally need to meet deadlines and are kept waiting but I've realised this is something we have to put up with when someone is making something for us - it's usually in their hands. There's a great feeling when you open a big box for the first time and it's all gone exactly to plan.

How have you promoted the Casual Connoisseur?
We do our own promotion through the web, the blog, the site which gets a terrific amount of weekly and monthly hits. I also tend to slightly hint at new releases with a taster to gauge interest first, which helps when we are sometimes kept waiting (as I mentioned above) but also gets people asking questions too.

We use all our own graphics and take our own photography, which we are a little fussy with. We only recently set up a Facebook account which has had a great response thus far. We're on our way to nine hundred followers in the space of a couple of months.

We did the Project Sticker, which was pretty innovative. It is essentially a plug for the site, using three designs on coloured, vinyl stickers which carry the web address. We send a few out with each item sold and we encourage people to stick them in interesting places, in turn making a great webpage for people to look at. There's a CC presence all over the world - from small islands to New York City and Moscow's famous subway. We actually get a lot of people asking us to send them stickers out too but they only really come with our products.

Could you describe a typical customer or are your designs popular with a great range of people?
We have a wide range of customers who are both young and old. We do well with the football style crowd but also equally well with people into their films and music who are pretty alternative to your average young casual. It's a real diverse mix, which I think is about right for the product we produce and what we are all about. Our casual themed tees always do well, but our Northern Music tee is easily one of the best sellers. We have a lot of scope, we are certainly not solely aimed at one market in particular.

We sell our product absolutely everywhere, every week I will post out the UK and there's always ones going to Europe and South America too, we have a great loyal bunch of followers who buy most new releases too. Our recent canvas shopper bag has been popular with both males and females too.

What are some labels that you admire or have influenced your designs?
From the off, I always quite liked the skate/street brands which did graphic t-shirts. In my younger days I was a big fan of Stussy and Supreme and the like, and a brand called Serial Killer (which had cult film scenes and cult heroes on them). Oh, and Felix Blow was a good brand too but they have sold their soul to the funboy crowd now.

My personal favourite labels would have to be the likes of 6876 - Kenneth Mackenzie has been doing his own thing for years now and does really nice clothing – subtle, smart and very well crafted. I've got a lot of his stuff and have been buying it since it first really emerged, which coincidentally was when I was first earning a wage. There's a great mix of smart shirts and harrington jackets and macs in my wardrobe, and of course the Capandula jacket which I must like as I've got half a dozen! it was never really a 'casual' brand, but while it has a decent following from that crowd, many others buy it too.

I'm a fan of some of the more recent British labels too, like Garbstore, Universal Works and Dominic Stansfield's stuff, I like Engineered Garments aswell, and functional outdoor brands too. I don't really buy much from the likes of Stone Island and C.P. Company as I used to years ago, and One True Saxon is a total shadow of it's former self. I'll bore anyone who'll listen about how I was wearing that stuff when it was well under the radar. There's quite a few labels I can say me and our kid had a hand in bringing to the fore, which I would not say if it wasn't the truth. The problem with this is you then have to move on to something else as everyone else gets on to it. I've not bought any Adidas trainers for a good couple of years either. I guess that's growing up and moving on. I like New Balance and the ideas they come up with, and always wore them at the football to try and be a little alternative. I'll still buy a good bit from the classics like Ralph Lauren, Paul Smith and Lacoste too.


Do you have a favourite tee which you have designed?
Tough question really. Ask any designer or label what their favourite piece is and they usually tell you the one they liked the best was the one they sold the least. Whilst that is not the case with us, there's been one or two I've been over the moon with which haven't sold as well as one's I wasn't totally enamored with, such is life though. My favourite designs would be the likes of the Ultraviolence one because for years you could only ever buy a tee of the famous silhouette of the droogs, from the high end to low end fodder that's all they ever used while we did our own unique take on it. I'd release loads more if I could. I like the series tees we do like Wise Guys, Anti Heroes - there's no end to what we can do with them and they always get comments. Also the one's which were designed by others for us like Action Man, the Subbuteo ones and the Nymph tee (it's a great design that, which not too many will get. I like it, it's proper out there.)

The Northern Music Factory is so simple and it works so well. Sometimes the more obvious and generic stuff are the one's which shift quickest, but that's what people want.

I have noticed that other Casual Connoisseur products like pin badges and bobble hats have been produced and that plans are afoot to begin producing polo shirts. Do you ever foresee producing your own range of outerwear or are you keen to keep the Casual Connoisseur as a tee-centred business?
Our brand is just that, a brand - a clothing label, not centred exclusively around around tees, although they take up a huge amount of what we do currently. That's where we started and it does very well, but there is a lot more to The Casual Connoisseur. We want and will be doing so much more. It's all building up, slowly but surely. We have a line of polos being produced for us right now - they are taking longer than we had anticipated, but as they are made totally to our own spec it's something we must put up with.

Our aims and intentions are to provide good quality produced clothing which is somewhere between the high end and the affordable, and usually deliberately limited in release to maintain exclusivity. We don't want to just churn out easy 'off the peg' stuff, but we want to market our clothing to the right people and not price them out with over inflated and over hyped prices. There is a middle market there which we can fit into, if things cost a lot to produce they will cost more to sell but we still want to maintain the quality aspect and, where possible, have things produced right here in the UK. On occasions though the best and only places can for production are overseas. People may look at Europe and further East as a bit of a cop out but we've found these to actually be places where they can actually only be possible for a smaller label like ourselves. We are currently sampling one item of outerwear at present and this is certainly a step in the direction we want to be taking. There are plans and ideas for all sorts but it's one step at a time. Progress is good, but it might be slower than we'd like, which does frustrate me at times.

However, there's no point in just jumping in and investing everything in one run of an expensively crafted jacket. I want to make sure anything we put our name to looks great and handles even better, but other long standing brands are established in that field and better than we are too. They also have the means to do what they want, so why even try and compete with that?

There's always a worry that quick released stuff will just end up looking like something from Primark with a badge stuck on. So it's better to take time, sourcing things properly and finding the right man for the right job. We have been self sufficient from the off and most of what we make goes straight back in. Contacts are the key - finding the right places is a lot harder than you may think, even if you have the funds waiting and available it's not easy. You will find one place who can do exactly what you want, but in what is ridiculous quantities for a label like ours. This is all part of the challenge and it's all a learning curve for us.

What are your future plans for the Casual Connoisseur?
Plenty - progress is the key. The tees will always be produced as there's always new ideas and hopefully always a market. There's a lot more we want to release and work on. I cannot say a great deal on that front yet, as I've tended to say too much in the past, but we should have polo shirts and sweatshirts in the coming months. This is in addition to the return of the Weir hat, which sold out in less than a month last year. Behind the scenes we are working on another couple of items too. I'd like for us to collaborate with more people in the future too.

The King of the Cagoule

Peter Storm was founded in 1954 by Noel Bibby. The company soon became famous for innovative design, helped by Bibby's experiences with the Royal Marines in World War II and his passion for outdoor clothing. Bibby, who passed away in 1989, helped to establish Peter Storm as a successful outdoor brand across the globe.

A highlight of the range, the Peter Storm cagoules became hugely popular in the late 1970s and the early 1980s following the emergence of the football casual subculture. They were paired with split Lois cords or bleached drainpipe jeans as well as the latest training shoes from the continent including Forest Hill, Nastase and Samba. This look is captured in last year's Awaydays (based on the novel by Kevin Sampson) with the clothing of 'the Pack' but the film makes use of replicas (produced by Adidas) as opposed to the real thing. These can be seen below.


The look quickly evolved and other labels became more prominent but the recent vintage craze has ensured that Peter Storm cagoules have and will remain an iconic piece of clothing for casuals and outdoor enthusiasts alike.

Below are photos of some Peter Storm catalogues.

Note: The images of the cagoules are not my own and are provided courtesy of Nicolas Ticklish' photostream.

Tune of the Day - "I wander lonely streets..."

Released as a single just after their sudden first break up, The Verve's "History" marked a bold new direction for the Wigan band. The song was a departure from the heavy psychedelic and shoegaze style that was prominent on their debut album "A Storm in Heaven". The song is nothing short of an epic and the orchestral strings and acoustic guitars would later provide inspiration for two of the nineties better known songs – "Bitter Sweet Symphony" and "Wonderwall". The song builds gradually and culminates with Richard Ashcroft's vocals bearing more and more desperation.

"History" is alleged to have been written about Ashcroft's break up with a long term girlfriend, though the vocalist has denied this. Whatever the song is about it is very easy to relate to and remains one of the (lesser known) masterpieces of the Britpop era.

A bit of trivia / useless informaton for you as well – the clapping heard in the songs is provided by Oasis frontman Liam Gallagher.

The song can be found on the Verve's second album "A Northern Soul" (1995).

Interview - Editor (Proper Magazine)

Proper Magazine is a fanzine style publication run by Mark Smith and Neil Summers. The Stockport based magazine is always an interesting read and has included articles about 6876, Garbstore and Stansfield as well as interviews with the C.P. Company enthusiast Griff Rhys Jones, DJ Greg Wilson and Awaydays author Kevin Sampson.

Mark from Proper Magazine has been kind enough to spare some of his time and give the following interview.

Where can I buy Proper Magazine?
It's available online from the Proper Mag shop plus a selected number of retailers. You can find out more from our website though.

How long have you been working in publishing for?
I'm not sure I'd go as far as saying I work in publishing. I put a fanzine style magazine together in my spare time and write content for a couple of clothing websites. I've been doing Proper and another fanzine before it for about 6 years now I think. Neil is the co-editor and he too hasn't really worked in publishing or written much before Proper. Maybe that has helped us in a way? It's hard to say.

You say you've written for clothing websites. What sites are these?
I'm helping Oi Polloi with the content for their new website at the moment and help Casuals Clobber with their newsletters and blog. I also used to help out Schindler Shop before they ceased to be.

What made you want to set up your own magazine? Do you think there is a lack of decent magazines out there?
There are plenty of decent magazines but there's nothing quite like what we do. It's obviously very niche at the moment and probably always will be but we just thought we could apply the same ideas we had doing the Stockport fanzine to our other interests and promote it via the web.

What other publications have you worked for?
The only thing I've ever done of any substance before now was a Stockport County fanzine.

How would you describe Proper Magazine?
It started out as a fanzine and while it has grown up a bit in the 4 years we've been doing it, I'd like to think it retains that feel. We write about whatever we're into but have started to centre on clothing.

Who would you say is your target consumer?
It's hard to say. On our Facebook we've got young lads from the football crowd desperate for a bit of inside information on the next big labels, but then we've also got arty professionals who I suppose appreciate our impartiality. Most other magazines writing about clothes seem to have more of an agenda to push. We sell a surprising amount of magazines to overseas people though, from all corners of the earth!

Where else have you sold these magazines?
There are loyal readers all over the place. A guy in Mexico has bought every issue from the start and in addition we've sent copies to El Salvador, Argentina, Brazil, Japan plus more obvious countries like the US and Canada. There are more countries in Europe we have sold to than haven't. Scandinavia and Italy probably account for the biggest amount though.

What are the steps taken in order to produce Proper Magazine? How long does it take from getting the ideas for an issue to seeing them in print?
It's far from an exact science and has changed with each issue. Generally though, we try and have 2 or 3 standout pieces we can headline with then everything else is added on the fly and based on who agrees to talk to us or be featured. The concept at the start is never what ends up being produced but I suppose that's what keeps it interesting for us. Time wise it has varied and I've been keen to stay away from accepting subscriptions because doing so demands we stick to a release schedule. I'd rather do one good magazine a year than rush 3 or 4 out and have them average.

Is there a secret to producing a very good publication?
You're better off asking someone with a longer and stronger track record than little old me! I would say we've found it easier to write about things we're passionate about, or things that we find interesting ourselves. We're keen to stick to that formula because it seems to have worked out ok for us so far. You also need support from advertisers and it makes sense to match those advertisers to the content you're writing about.

What problems have you come across while working on the magazine?
The biggest problem of late has been Royal Mail losing or ruining copies of the last issue. We've increased Issue 9 to 48 pages and while it's still covered by a first class stamp, it seems the extra thickness and regular envelopes meant some got mangled or killed by the sorting system. It's a pain but these things happen. We're using strong envelopes now and that seems to have helped. Other than that, we've not encountered too many problems. It's frustrating dealing with retailers at times but those who get what we're about have been really supportive.

What is your favourite issue of Proper Magazine and why?
There are bits from all of them that I like, but we'd not be doing things very well if the latest issue (#9) wasn't the best, and therefore my favourite. We spent a couple of days in London getting content for the latest issue and I think it shows. We've got similar plans for issue 10.

Aside from Proper Magazine, what other magazines do you read?
I'll read almost anything. I've drawn the line at things like Nuts and Zoo and only occasionally bother with Loaded and FHM. It must be an age thing. But I've got piles of magazines in the spare room, from old GQ's, Maxim, Esquire and so on, plus football fanzines from various clubs. I get stick for that though, so I'll leave it there!

What magazines or publications have served as influence for Proper Magazine?
Jack Magazine was short-lived but is probably the kind of thing I'd like to see return. The editor was James Brown who founded Loaded and now runs Sabotage Times. Beyond that, obviously Viz has always been a massive influence and the story of how it came about is inspiring. I'd say it's pretty much impossible for any home-made publication to do what they did these days. There are publications out there that are inspiration for knowing how we don't want to do things. Some magazines take themselves far too seriously. It's only clothes and that isn't it?

Are there are any features or labels you would like to include in future issues of the magazine?
What we'd like to do and what we'll end up doing are two different things. There aren't any holy grail type interviews or features we'd like to do. We just let it happen really.

What are your future plans for Proper Magazine?
Who knows? I've never really thought about where the ceiling is for a publication like ours. It'd be nice to get more support from retailers and brands because although we're quick to play down what we do, it's clear there's a loyal following who are clearly influenced by what we write about, and in that there's probably significant value for advertisers. With more substantial advertising we could move towards a more polished look, but retain the style of writing. There's a fair chance issue 10 will be a similar format but the layout, colours and design will be improved if our plans come off, but generally as I've said already, we just do things on the fly.

Adidas London 2010 Reissues

The latest release from Adidas to catch my eye is the planned reissue of the Adidas London for 2010. Reissue of the London, you say? Yes, despite being reissued earlier this year (as part of the Size? x Adidas collaborations) the Adidas London is set for another facelift.

The colours this time are radically different. It's not just a case of reversing the colourway (as it was with the Consortium London) but the London reissues are set to come out in four brand new colourways. These are brown & light brown, blue & light green, black & orange and yellow & blue.

To anyone with even a distant interest in Adidas trainers these colours are instantly recognisable. They are in fact the colourways of the Adidas Amsterdam, the Bern, the Brussel and the Malmo. All of these are four of Adidas' most iconic and enduring Adidas City releases, fetching quite a lot on eBay to boot.

Taken on their own none of these are bad trainers at all. But it all begs the question why name them as London? They're clearly not a reworking of the trainer but an entirely new version, so why not just reissue the other city series?

All in all I quite like these trainers. The Amsterdam (see how people are referring to them) look very decent and while I'm generally not a huge fan of black trainers, the Brussels do look quite smart. The Malmo look like they may be hard to clean but they're better than the majority of new Adidas releases while the Bern also look a nice trainer.

If I'm being picky then the sole on the Brussel model is too light – it needs to be darker (as it is on the original version seen in the images below) and I also think that the gold lettering looks a bit tacky. I'd imagine, like most recent city reissues, these will cost about £70 and I'll probably pick up a pair of either the Amsterdam or Bern colours as I do think they are good looking trainers. They're not a patch on the originals, mind, but I'm not in the financial position of being able to spend over £200 on a pair of trainers from the 1980s (I actually feel uncomfortable paying over a ton for a pair of trainers) so buying from eBay isn't an option.

I hope Adidas don't overkill colourways on the city series models like they did with the Gazelle and Forest Hill trainers but it wouldn't surprise me if they headed that way because these are bound to sell out fast. I'd imagine the touts will soon be flogging them on eBay to some punter with more money than sense pretty rapidly too.

Below are some images of the trainers versus their original version. I couldn't find the a close up of the Amsterdam London so decided not to bother to do a comparison for it. If you're that arsed then I'm sure Google will show you a photo of the originals.

Note: None of the below photos are my own. The photos of the reissued Londons are taken by Oslojaxx of Found_NYC.

C.P. Company - SS11 Preview

The first C.P. Company garments were produced in 1975 and were aimed at the Italian market with the intention of providing a more traditional look to a man's wardrobe. The C.P. Company philosophy can be summised in one short phrase – "Function and Use".

The large majority of C.P. Company's range is inspired by the clothes worn by those in the militarty. In recent years this focus has evolved into a focus more upon urban city clothing. This can be seen in their "Urban Protection" range.

What makes C.P. Company such an attractive and exciting brand for many is that it is designed as functional and technical clothing. As such, features such as smog masks, watchviewers and the iconic goggles have been found on many C.P. garments. This (and their use of pioneering fabrics under the reign of Massimo Osti), of course, means that much of C.P. Company's clothing is very expensive (expect a jacket to cost over half a ton) yet this also provides some degree of exclusivity for the brand.

I have attatched a few images which offer a brief glimpse into what C.P. Company may be offering for next year's summer collection. From the looks of things it appears that they are pursuing a more traditional approach with much of the clothing looking quite similar to some of the classic pieces from the nineties. The highlight for me is the Mille Miglia in a stunning burnt orange colour which looks a great piece of clothing which will probably hold a price tag to match.

All in all, it looks like C.P. Company may very well be making a comeback and could well be a brand to keep an eagle eye on.

Tune of the Day - "There's nothing you can do that can't be done..."

Credited to Lennon/McCartney, "All You Need Is Love" is actually a purely John Lennon penned number. Released in July 1967, the song was written as a response to a Brian Epstein request for a song which would give a simple message which would be easy to understand for all nationalities. The song topped both the American and British singles charts and to this day remains one of the Fab Four's most loved and popular songs. It has been covered by numerous artists including Echo & the Bunnymen, Tears for Fears and (surprise, surprise!) Noel Gallagher.

The Youth of Years Gone By

94 years ago today that the Battle of the Somme began.

May all who served their country and fought bravely rest in peace.

In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.

We are the Dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved, and were loved, and now we lie
In Flanders fields.

Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.