The Forgotten Stone

His six year tenure (1969-1975) as guitarist for the Rolling Stones came at a time which saw the band release their two defining masterpieces; Sticky Fingers and Exile on Main Street, yet despite this Mick Taylor's contribution to the "greatest rock and roll band in the world" is criminally underlooked – by both fans and his former band mates.

Following the untimely (yet ultimately inevitable) departure and death of Brian Jones, Taylor was picked as the founding member's replacement despite his initial expectations of only being a session musician. His onstage debut came at Jones' Hyde Park tribute concert in front of a crowd estimated at a quarter of a million.

Despite adding overdubs on two tracks from Let It Bleed, Taylor's virtuoso guitarplay only really began to show its full force on the epic follow up – Sticky Fingers. While he contributed arguably two of the finest songs on the album in "Sway" and "Moonlight Mile", it was with his techical brilliance on lead guitar where Taylor's presence was felt fully. The extended coda of "Can't You Hear Me Knocking" can be attributed entirely to Taylor while he single handedly out performs all of the other band members on the Stone's live release, Get Yer Ya-Ya's Out!

Why then, you may well ask, has Taylor never received the recognition he deserves?

There are many reasons for this. While Taylor outclassed every guitarist the Stones had before and have had since, and in doing so helped elevate them from a blues-rock outfit to a band that could contend with the musicianship of the likes of Cream and Led Zeppelin, there remains precious little to remember him by.

Sure, he left behind an arsenal of great guitar licks yet most of these are wrongly cited as Richards' efforts. Mick had the swagger, Richards had the image and Jones had the rockstar's death. What did Taylor have? He lacked stage presence and never really fitted in with the Stones on a personal note.

Taylor has since said that he felt a failure to leave the band would have resulted in his own death but it's hard to believe that there wasn't an element of jealousy from other members – especially Richards – which played a part in his departure. Taylor can easily be described as the glue which held the band together during its golden age. Richards had already given himself over to drugs and a life of excess and Jagger was soon to become nothing more than a cariacture of himself.

Is it any real surprise that Taylor's arrival coincided with the band's greatest output and his depature led to their worst?

I'd hazard a guess at saying no.

It's a sad state of affairs to see that this great guitarist hasn't been paid any royalties from his former band mates since 1982, but is it really a shock? While Jagger and co have sold their souls down the drain for monetary gain, Taylor now makes do with life in a Suffolk semi. Life's a bitch, eh?

Photos were taken from The Selvedge Yard.

The Rig Out #3

Soon to hitting the shelves (and website) of Oi Polloi and various other select stockists is The Rig Out, a magazine compiled by Glenn Kitson. This will be the third edition of the magazine and features include stunning photography of remote Norwegian hillsides, an appearance from the cyclist James Bowthorpe, as well as the usual showcasing of genuinely brilliant clothing from the likes of Nigel Cabourn and Stone Island.

Recent Purchase - Weinbrenner Thorgood Oxfords

It's been a while since we last had some stuff coming through the door at Jimmy Jazz HQ. This time the latest edition to the wardrobe comes in the shape of a pair of Duluth Thorogood Oxford shoes. I'm a big fan of hard wearing footwear and these are spot on.

Manufactured in the USA, these ace shoes are produced by Weinbrenner, a company whom have been leaders in footwear manufacturing and pioneering in the American shoemaking industry ever since their inception in 1892. They have, as you would expect for a company dating back to over one hundred years, some serious pedigree and experience in manufacturing durable footwear. This is no more evident than in this pair of Oxfords.

Winter isn't the time to be walking about in suede desert boots or trainers and so a good pair of Oxfords have fitted the bill very nicely indeed. They're tough, sturdy and ace on the eye – there is nothing not to like about these shoes.

A Connoisseur's Cagoule

As those who read this blog regularly will no doubt know, here at Jimmy Jazz we are big fans of the iconic cagoules of the eighties. Izod Lacoste and Patrick both became famous for their efforts but king among them were the Peter Storm cagoules – true icons of terrace style which became famous when worn by match going lads during the explosion of casual culture in the late seventies.

Therefore it'll come as no surprise to you that when we heard that the Casual Connoisseur would be producing a direct replica of the Peter Storm cagoules we soon became suitably interested. The original cagoules were indeed fairly innovative at the time with such advances as increased breathability, the Connoisseur cagoule will be updated yet further with several technical advances being used to bring a new slant to this classic piece of outerwear.

While some of you may immediately think that these are little more than a rip-off of the original efforts, they do indeed have the blessing of Mr. Paul Bibby – Noel Bibby's son and successor at Peter Storm until its takeover by Millets. He's even gone as far as to give them the manufacturer's he used and personally we think it's nice to see a label go about a reinvention in the correct way.

Details are scarce at the minute but we believe that the cagoule will be available in three different colours. Any preferences, anyone?

Interview - Joe Schindler (Joe & Co)

Joe Schindler is a man with some serious pedigree behind him. Having worked in the industry in one form or another for nearly thirty years, Joe has overseen and owned projects such as Schindler's Menswear in Stockport which was, until its recent closure, Stockport's finest clothing shop, stocking some of the best labels out there.

In this interview we discuss Joe's latest project – Joe & Co – as he offers us his expert insight into the great (yet sometimes confusing) world of premium Japanese denim.

Tell us a bit about yourself. What other projects have you worked on or with prior to Joe & Co?
I have worked within the clothing industry in various roles since 1980. I was both the owner and creative director of Josef Jeans until 1998 and until recently I owned Schindler's Menswear in Stockport.

When did you begin to take an interest in denim?
My interest in the world of denim began to take hold around the late eighties, specifically when I launched Josef Jeans in 1987.

Where did the idea for Joe & Co come from?
The idea for Joe & Co basically came from the huge passion which I have for denim. It was probably when working on the Josef Jeans collection in the early nineties as there was not really anybody doing niche denim in UK at the high level which I wanted to do that the idea became a serious one.

What's the philosophy that underpins Joe & Co?
The philosophy of the Joe & Co brand is to understand the fundamentals of the denim that we use and also how the garments and components are made. We strive for the perfect fit which is really the holy grail when it comes to a pair of jeans. "Good things come to those who wait..."

Does Joe & Co denim come in a range of styles and fits?
Joe & Co denim will come in four fits and styles. While these will vary from time to time, this will never be to a great extent. I guess this is because we believe that too much change can effect the ethos of the brand.

What brands have inspired the Joe & Co garments?
I wouldn't go as far to say that there are specific brands that inspire me. My inspiration comes from all over the place - and all walks of life. However, if you were to pinpoint me on that, then I would have to say that labels such as Sugarcane, Waste Twice, Anachronorm are those closest to offering real inspiration.

The Japanese have always had a big interest in selvedge denim. Do you feel it's starting to catch on more over here?
The Japanese are the masters of selvedge denim. The term 'selvedge' is used too loosely in the commercial side of the industry with too many brands using this term within their collections in order to gain notoriety yet still mass produce their product to a level whereby brands like ourselves, Sugarcane and many more will gain more credability within our market share.

There are also brands using the term 'Japanese denim' yet their products are washed in other countries like Turkey, Tunisia and so forth. Joe & Co denim is from Japan, made in Japan, and if I ever decide to wash the garments, then they will be washed in Japan.

Selvedge denim always seems to be something that confuses people or they can't quite get their heads around it. Can you explain what it is and what it's benefits are?
Selvedge denim is the result of how the fabric is finished. It keeps the fabric from fraying and is made on shorter looms which around 27-29 inches wide. These can take upto 3mts of fabric useage where other denim for the masses is made on wider looms at 58-65 inches wide.

I've always been baffled by certain people's unwillingness to spend a decent amount on a pair of jeans when they are more than happy to spend serious money on a coat or pair of old trainers. Is this something which irritates you? Why do you think it is like this?
For me, denims are as or even more important than what shoes or jacket you are wearing. However, it does not irritate me as such, simply because people's perceptions are different. The UK is a very fickle market and most people just do not understand the benefits of Japanese selvedge denim as it's too expensive for them to justify to themselves.

If you purchase a pair of Joe & Co jeans what care needs to be taken with them?
I'm a firm believer that all Japanese denim should be bought in its raw state and only washed inside out once every three to six months. Of course this all depends on how many times they have been worn. This will give the wearer his own unique and individual look that no company or chemical wash will be able to replicate.

Wash inside out using cold water, no detergent (or very little if you must) and leave to drip dry.

Is there anything that differentiates Joe & Co from your standard selvedge denim?
The differences between Joe & Co denim and other selvedge brands can vary quite a lot. I guess it all depends on what you want from the brand and how much your prepared to pay for that.

A lot of denim companies now make use of Japanese denim. Is this a serious indicator of superior quality or does it very much depend on where exactly in Japan the jeans are manufactured?
Joe & Co Denim is made in Ibara, Okayama - this is the home of Japanese denim. We use only the finest craftsmen and denim mills in the world today. The techniques that are used in the manufacturing process have stood the test of time; they have been passed down from generation to generation. These craftsmen are perfectionists, and this is why the price tag on the products is as it is.

I've noticed that Joe & Co do not only produce denim products. Can you tell us about these?
We will also be producing shirting and sweats. However, these will be in very limited edition runs, much like the denims are.

What are your future plans with Joe & Co?
While at the moment we are targeting the Japanese and American market with the Joe & Co brand, we will eventually bring it the the shores of the UK. This will hopefully happen soon.

Do you have any other projects lined up?
I have a couple of projects lined up, of which one will being launched in January 2011 for AW11. This is effectively a diluted version of Joe & Co for the UK & European markets and this will be a full collection.

With regards to the name of the brand, you will have to wait until November before we release any news. However, keep your eye on Facebook as there will be some snippets added or look on my Joe & Co Denim Facebook page.

We'd like to thank Joe for kindly providing us with this interview. If you are interested in the Joe & Co products then I would recommend visiting the official site, where their full range of products can be both viewed and purchased.

It's War!

Those with even a passing interest in modern art and graffiti will no doubt be familiar with the works of Banksy – the man whose identity remains a mystery for many. His work is both varied and iconic. For those who aren't familiar with it, you should be.

It appears that Banksy may have bitten off more than he can chew however and murmurings within the graffiti community are suggesting that he may be entering a 'graffiti feud' with London artist Robbo after Banksy included a character from one of Robbo's works (dating back 25 years) in his latest piece (see above).

Needless to say Robbo has responded (see below), and we await Bansky's response with interest...

A Longmeadow Morning

Put together by Neil Bedford (who has also worked with the likes of Heritage Research) and modelled by John Brown of Oi Polloi, Penfield's Fall / Winter lookbook entitled "A Longmeadow Morning" shows off their roots well as an outdoors brand. Not only this, but it also provides an indication of where the brand seems to be headed.

This isn't just a cool collection of images though. The lookbook manages to showcase some of Penfield's best designs this season. All the usual suspects are in here in one form or another – down jackets, flannel shirts and mountain parkas are all included. There's even a plaid shirt (second image) which is the result of a collaboration with Gitman Bros.

If the collection is as good as the lookbook then we are in for a treat. Check it out yourself at the Penfield website.

Art Direction: Andy Bird
Photography: Neil Bedford
Styling and Creative Production: Glenn Kitson