Jimmy Jazz

Moved.

2011-06-20T13:01:00.001-07:00

The blog has now moved to http://transmissionjournal.wordpress.com/

Thanks to all those who followed and be sure to check out the new blog!

6876 x Scene Capandula

2011-04-04T10:31:00.000-07:00

Undoubtedly one of the most sought after jackets out there, the Capandula is one of 6876's most popular products. Soon to be released is their new version – a collaboration with Birmingham retailer Scene Menswear. Few reissues ever hit the mark but Kenneth MacKenzie and co seems to be spot on with this one; improving the jacket's specification and adding features such as a quilted lining, wax finish and corduroy collar yet all the while not fiddling too much with a concept that was great in the first place. Having been outbid on a Capandula this very week, this reissue may well be answer.

Boardwalk Empire.

2011-02-19T03:43:00.000-08:00

So you've finished both the Sopranos and the Wire and you're after your next fix of brilliant stateside television? Well HBO might just have come to your rescue yet again. Boardwalk Empire is the brainchild of ex-Sopranos writer Terence Winter and cinema legend Martin Scorsese. Starting in Atlantic City on the eve of Prohibition, Steve Buscemi plays county treasurer Nucky Thompson - a Machiavellian figure who colludes with organised crime figures for his own personal gain. Other star turns are provided by Michael Shannon and in particular Stephen Graham, who excels as a young and extremely violent Al Capone.

I'm only four episodes in but this has the potential to be a great television programme. With gangsters, liquor and tits galore, what's not to like? Watch it.

Interview - Danny from Native Craftworks

2011-02-17T05:31:00.000-08:00

There's few out there who do it better than Native Craftworks when it comes to making great shoes. Having first come to my attention when they were stocked in Oi Polloi last year, Native Craftworks have left a lasting impression. Each of the shoes stood out to me despite their relatively simple designs and when this is combined with the resolute committment to quality that Native Craftworks have, I simply had to find out more. I fired away some questions and their main man Danny was kind enough to give the answers.

In this interview we discuss the past, present and future of Native Craftworks, the sourcing of raw materials for the shoes and the root of Danny's passion for fine footwear.

First things first, what are you wearing today?
White tee shirt, old grey thick sweatshirt, Lee 101Z and I'm wearing a pair of samples - a new style. If I told you, I'd have to kill you!

How did Native Craftworks set up and how has it progressed to where it is now?
It all started about two and a half years ago. There wasn’t really any shoes out there that I wanted to wear, so I thought I’d have a go myself. Simple shoes, nothing fancy, but using the best quality materials and constructions.

When I got the first samples I met with Steve & Nigel from Oi Polloi to show them what I was up to. They liked what I was trying to do and encouraged me to continue. It took a few rounds of sampling to get the last, proportions and construction right, but it was all worth it when Oi Polloi placed their first order.

Where did the inspiration for the name come from?
‘Native’ is both a nod of respect to the creators of the first moccasins and also about being true to where you’re from. It’s important for me that the shoes have a British feel. ‘Craftworks’ kind of speaks for itself I suppose. The shoes are hand made in a small factory, which in essence is a ‘Craft Works’

When and why did footwear become a passion for you?
I’ve always loved shoes. My Dad was a buyer, so I was brought up with shoes all over the house. It’s in the blood!

Your shoes are designed in England and handmade in Portugal. What happens in between these two stages?
I visit the factory to explain the design and then go through the construction, spec the materials etc. Once everything is clear, the factory will make a sample. I'll then make amendments and tweak things until everything is perfect and I have a finished sample. It can take up to four samples to get everything right - sometimes more.

You've gone to great lengths to find the perfect crepe sole. Why did you end up choosing to source them from Sri Lanka?
Crepe is a natural material harvested from the Hevea tree. Like any natural material, there are good and not-so-good sources. With crepe it’s always difficult to get the balance between it being soft enough to give the best comfort and hard enough to give the best durability. We tried and tested many sources and it just so happened that the source that we felt had the best balance was in Sri Lanka.

How do you ensure the leather and suede used is the best out there?
We like our leathers and suedes to be thick, but still soft, so you get both comfort and support. If a leather is too soft it doesn’t support your foot properly. If a leather is too thick it can be uncomfortable. We work with a small tannery that make leathers to our specification. It took a while to get the formula right, but we think it was worth the time and effort.

Can you tell us a bit about the manufacturing process? How's it all done?
I could ramble on all day about how the shoes are made. Each pair takes approximately four hours to make. The uppers are cut by hand, using a very sharp knife. They are skived and stitched on lovely old machines. Back seams are handstitched for re-inforcement. The uppers are lasted by hand, the footbed put in place and the handcut crepe sole wrapped around the upper / footbed and handstitched all the way round.

We’re working on a feature for Proper Mag that explains the process in more detail – so look out for the next issue. We’re also working on a short film to show the levels of expertise & craftsmanship that goes into each pair of shoes.

Where does the inspiration for your designs come from?
All over the place. I love looking at how things are made, on really simple designs – take furniture for example - it’s often the way something is constructed that gives a product it’s unique shape and detail. Using the best materials also helps to give character. Sometimes inspiration comes from travel; the Dalesman shoe was inspired by a visit to Ingleborough in Yorkshire.

What kind of person wears Native Craftworks?
Someone who loves simple, well-made casual shoes. Someone who understands and appreciates the quality and craftsmanship that goes into each pair.

What makes Native Craftworks unique?
We’re a small independent company trying to make the best casual footwear there is. Not sure that makes us unique, but we work very hard to make sure our design, construction and quality are second to none. For us it’s about making shoes the right way…not the cheapest or the quickest.

At present there are very few stockists of Native Craftworks. Have you deliberately limited the number of stores carrying the range?
Not really; Steve and Nigel at Oi Polloi were good enough to give us some of their valuable time when we were trying to get started. They also gave us our first order, so we wanted to repay them by letting them have it to themselves for a bit.

We’re adding two new stores soon: We’ve got a delivery going into ‘Journal Standard’ in Japan any day now and a small order going into ‘Steven Alan’ in New York towards the end of August. ‘Tomorrowland’ in Japan is another possibility. Keep your fingers crossed!

What are your future plans for Native Craftworks?
To keep things simple. Design and make the best shoes we can and hope that people love them as much as we do.

We’ve also had a lot of emails from people asking for styles / colours that Oi Polloi no longer stock, so we’re looking into a small online shop. We’ll also be able make available small runs of Japan-only product.

I'd like to thank Danny for taking the time out to answer these questions. If you haven't already, check out the Native Craftworks website - you won't be disappointed!

Athletic Club - Football's True Traditionalists

2011-02-01T13:24:00.000-08:00

If you've managed to learn anything this season from the farce that is the Premier League then it's most likely to be that morals in football are declining more and more rapidly. First Wayne Rooney, then Carlos Tevez and now Fernando Torres – three frontmen who were the talismen of their respective clubs – have all handed in transfer requests, turning their backs on the fans who had sung their names week in week out.

One club where you won't find such a lack of ethics is Athletic Club – a La Liga side from Bilbao, in the heart of the Basque Country. One of only four clubs in Spain that is owned by its fans (alongside Barcelona, Osasuna and Real Madrid), Bilbao have become renowned for their cantera policy of nurturing young Basque footballing talent.

Cantera, a Spanish word which literally means 'quarry', refers to the youth academies of the top football clubs in Spain. What sets Athletic's cantera policy apart from its peers is that nearly all players who make up the first team squad have come through it. The few that haven't have been purchased from other Spanish sides, but only if they are Basque. This is a region that is fiercely proud of its people, and this extends to its football team.

Athletic Club dates back to 1898 when, as is the case with so many Spanish football teams, it was established by a group of British migrants. These shipyard workers chose the colours of red and white for the club; an ode to the football teams of Sunderland and Southampton, cities where many of these workers were born and raised. The club adopted a policy of selecting only Basque players in 1912 and, barring a few minor modifications to the rule, this is a policy that has been strictly adhered to till this day, defying the increasingly global nature of the sport and the temptations of excess, greed and selfishness which modern football has succumed to.

Historically, Atheltic are the most successful football club in Spain after Barcelona and Real Madrid. They have eight league titles and twenty-three Copa del Reys to their name. All of this success achieved by a club whose selection pool is smaller than the West Midlands. Not bad at all.

It's fair to say that not everyone is sold on the youth policy that underpins Athletic Club. Some have labelled it foolish, backward and unfair. Others have gone as far as to call it racist. Their fans, on the other hand, feel nothing but an immense sense of pride toward their football club. This isn't a policy which aims to be racist, it's one that wishes to remain loyal to its roots and represent the community as best it can.

There's no doubt it has affected results on the pitch . The last of these eight league titles was won back in 1984 and while they have remained competitive in the Copa del Rey since this, they have struggled to challenge in the league. Such a lack of success would rarely be tolerated in the Premier League but in an era of mega-spending it is to be expected. Their fans do not seem too bothered and ultimately that is what a football club should do – serve its fans.

This is a policy that may restrict success but it is also one which maximises pride. One look at the club motto and you can see it is one that is unlikely to change any time soon.

“Con cantera y aficion, no hace falta importación” – “With home-grown teams and supporters, there is no need for imports.”

The Stars of Athletic Club

Fernando Llorente
The man who is fighting Fernando Torres tooth and nail for the right to partner David Villa, Llorente is Athletic Club's top scorer this season, having netted twelve times in twenty appearances. Such a successful strike rate has not gone unnoticed and Llorente is widely tipped to join Real Madird in the summer. Think of a slightly more gifted Andy Carroll and you're getting close to the style of player Llorente is.

Javi Martinez
A typically combative Basque midfielder, it's no surprise that numerous Premier League clubs – Liverpool and Manchester City among them – are believed to have Javi Martinez in their sights. A big and strong player, Martinez is also blessed with a great range of passing; a skill that has led to comparisons with Xabi Alonso.

Iker Muniain
The "Spanish Wayne Rooney" is a player you may not have heard of yet, but one that you are pretty likely to become aware of in the next few years. In only two years of senior football, Muniain has established himself as an integral part of the Athletic side and the fearless forward is expected to become the main man in Bilbao should Fernando Llorente depart as expected this summer.

Recent Purchases.

2011-01-17T09:07:00.000-08:00

It's been a bit quiet lately, hasn't it? Work has been occupying a lot of my time but one thing it hasn't prevented me from doing is spending my hard earned on some new clobber. Here are a few recent purchases; some old and some new.

When it comes to denim, Japanese experts Edwin are a personal favourite of mine. These guys have well over fifty years experience in the business and they aren't ones to cut corners when it comes to quality. The ED-71 is a slightly slimmer-than-usual straight fitting jean made from 14oz Japanese Red Selvedge Denim. All of the obligatory details – leather waist patch, embossed buttons and the iconic stitching – are all present. If you can brave out the uncomfortable breaking in stage then selvedge jeans are definitely where it's at.

Yeah, you're right. Now probably isn't the time of year to be buying suede shoes but I'm a sucker for a bargain regardless of what season it is and so upon noticing a pair of Clarks Ashcott at nearly half price, they just had to be bought. The Ashcott made a return to the Clarks Originals range last year following a long hiatus from production. Its simple silhouette and the typical Clarks quality ensure this simple classic will remain on my feet for a long while.

It isn't a brand I'd usually look at but Ben Sherman nailed it on this one. The introduction of their Modern Classics range has seen the label return to doing simple things very well; something that was a huge part of their appeal in the first place. This Fisherman's Parka comes in a lovely burnt gold colour and is complete with embossed buttons, toggles and a corduroy collar. Albam rip off? Maybe. Smart jacket? Definitely.

Oi Polloi have recently had collaborations with both Norse Projects and Henri Lloyd but this cashmere blend jumper dates back a few years when they were producing their own gear. Superb quality and perfect for this time of year, this jumper is already seeing its fair share of wear. Keep your eyes peeled on Oi Polloi and their Cottonopolis range due out later this year.

They may be new to our shores but Heritage Research have been producing fine quality clothing exclusively for the Japanese market for years. Inspiration for their range is drawn from pretty much everywhere: military, outdoor and classic workwear. The Longline Parka remains one of their most popular jackets and this limited edition orange effort is made in England and full of all the quality details you'd expect to see with a brand of this pedigree.

Proper Mag #10

2010-12-15T08:49:00.000-08:00

The good chaps over at Proper Magazine are all set to release their much improved tenth issue. Having worked together with some major players in the publication industry – including James Brown and designer Matt Sankey – Proper are now offering a magazine that is over double the length of any previous issues. It's still got all the humour and content that made you love it in the first place including a look inside the Garbstore HQ, an interview with the bloke behind Post Overalls and a peek inside one of the most enviable vintage collections in the country.

All this and much, much more for a little over a fiver. Pre-order now to avoid disappointment.

Rest in Peace.

2010-12-08T15:21:00.000-08:00

John Winston Ono Lennon.

9 October, 1940 - 8 December, 1980.

"Imagine there's no heaven..."

2010-12-08T15:19:00.000-08:00

Arguably John Lennon's most famous and finest solo single, "Imagine" is a fitting tribute to the man who tragically departed us thirty years ago. While the moments where his solo work matched the quality of his Beatles efforts were few and far between, "Imagine" is one song that can hold its own with any Beatles track.

The lyrical content of the song goes hand in hand with Lennon's political views at the time. Promoting the idea of a "one country, one world, one people" existence, Lennon believed such a utopian view wasn't outside the realms of possibility. He said, "Can you imagine a world without countries or religions?" It's the same message over and over. And it's positive."

The song is so great due to the brilliant melody and tone that carries it. Its composition on the piano as opposed to the guitar enabled the song to have a much gentler mood to it than much of Lennon's previous solo work.

Often considered one of the greatest songs ever written, artists as musically varied as David Bowie and Lady Gaga have covered the song at one point in their careers. Noel Gallagher even shamelessly (though rather brilliantly) ripped it off for "Don't Look Back in Anger." The song remains an undoubted classic.

Recent Purhcase - Universal Works Mountain Jacket

2010-11-30T13:15:00.000-08:00

We're well into winter now and with it, well into big jacket weather. This little offering from Universal Works is the latest addition to my wardrobe. As with the vast majority of the Universal Works range, the design itself is simple enough. Clearly the inspiration for this jacket has been drawn from the functional 60/40 mountain parkas first produced by the pre-eminent American outdoors brands of the 1970's, yet the detailing and quality propels the jacket into a league of its own.

If you're after more information on the Universal Works label, check out this interview with their main man David Keyte.

The Big Picture.

2010-11-30T12:58:00.000-08:00

Above are some choice from photographs from the annual photo contest run by the National Geographic. Touching and beautiful in many different ways, I'd strongly recommend visiting the Boston.com website for a wider selection of these truly breathtaking images.

Ben Sherman: Modern Classics - A Return to Form?

2010-11-25T11:27:00.000-08:00

"Why should I have any interest in Ben Sherman?"

This is a question many of you may be asking yourselves. The label, while originally both exclusive and innovative, suffered the overkill that plagues many success stories and has seen the company reduced to little more than catalogue fodder. However with the imminent launch of the 'Modern Classics' range, does this brand merit a place in your wardrobe once again?

Having founded the company in 1963, Ben Sherman began making shirts himself in a small Brighton factory and with it laid the foundations for a clothing company that would become essential wear for many youth subcultures, from the mods to the skinheads. With the launch of Modern Classics, Ben Sherman hope to use over fifty years of knowledge and experience in order to update and reproduce some of the classic items of menswear.

There's chambray shirts, button down collars, fisherman's jackets, naval knitwear, chinos, bobble hats and scarves. All classic items, all given a modern twist whether it be through a new interpretation or an updating of fabrics. There's a clear influence from the likes of Saint James and Albam and from what we've seen it looks pretty decent indeed.

To promote the range, whet our appetites and provide a different slant to that of their usual products, Ben Sherman went to Kilchoan, arguably the most remote place in the UK, for a photo shoot. The following photos are a choice selection from that shoot.

More information about the Ben Sherman Modern Classics range can be found at their official website.

Retro Advert of the Day

2010-11-23T08:09:00.000-08:00

A great retro advert, full of fifties vibes.

Winterweir

2010-11-08T09:53:00.000-08:00

I recently acquired this bobble hat from the fine gentlemen over at the Casual Connoisseur. With winter getting closer and temperatures falling at a rapid rate, it's bound to become a staple part of my wardrobe as I look to keep my head warm over the coming months.

Christened "the Weir" due to the late Scottish broadcaster Tom Weir's love for bobble hats, this is the Casual Connoisseur's third run of this geeky cool bit of headwear. The hats, one of the label's most popular products, were limited to a run of just fifty in each colourway and unsurprisingly flew off the shelves.

Fortunately, I was quick enough to grab myself one in time – and the quality is immediately apparent. The hats are made of double layered acryllic which allows for warmth but reduces bulk and itchiness, whilst all the manufacturing takes place right here in England. Furthermore, they are designed so as to allow them to stretch to fit bigger head shapes, something that has come as a great relief to me and my oversized napper. More information about these hats can be found here, over at Sabotage Times.

For those who weren't rapid enough to get one before they sold out, never fear. Realising the huge demand for these bobble hats, the chaps at the Casual Connoisseur have come up with a new design which should be available by December time. Click here for more details.

Recent Purchase - Woolrich Woolen Mills Raglan Chambray Shirt

2010-11-03T09:44:00.000-07:00

It's all been quiet on the blog front recently, hasn't it? I've been buried under a seemingly neverending pile of work recently but this hasn't helped curb my spending habit one bit.

My most recent purchase is that wardrobe essential: a chambray shirt. A timeless American classic which was famously donned by Paul Newman in Cool Hand Luke, the chambray shirt has its roots in workwear. In fact, it became so widely worn by American workers up and down the country that it even led to the coining of the term "blue collar". That's one for you, fact fans.

This chambray is from Woolrich Woolen Mills – a label which is as American as it gets when it comes to appearances yet, ironically enough, is designed by a man from Japan.

That man is no other than Daiki Suzuki, who you'll all no doubt be familiar with if you hold any interest in who designs your clothes or if, like me, you spend far too time reading about clothes while on the interest. Suzuki's story is an interesting one either way.

Suzuki moved to Boston in 1989 where he worked as a buyer for several of Japan's finest menswear stores. He oversaw the introduction of handmade moccasins, functional outerwear and Ivy League styling to the American market and in doing so marked himself out as one of the foremost experts on America's traditional outdoor and hunting wear. This soon led to Suzuki going from buyer to designer in 1991 and eight years later his first Engineered Garments line was produced, totally American in style yet exclusive for the Japanese market.

The success of the Engineered Garments label was immediate and well deserved. Suzuki then set about resurrecting Woolrich Woolen Mills, using both traditional manufacturing methods and original fabrics. The first WWM line was released in January 2006 to similarly successful acclaim.

This particular chambray shirt is from Suzuki's last season designing for the Woolrich Woolen Mills brand and has all the hallmarks you would expect from a Suzuki piece. Attention to detail is spot on with features such as reinforced elbow patches, shoulder lining and three button-fastening pockets all very nice touches. Deliberate made to be loose fitting, the shirt is at its best when worn with an under garment because of its curved hem.

A very nice shirt, indeed.

The Rise and Fjall (and Rise Again) of the Arctic Fox

2010-10-21T15:22:00.000-07:00

Swedish brand Fjällräven have been producing quality outdoor clothing for nigh on sixty years. Favoured by nature enthusiasts and left wing activitists back in its homeland, the label was sought out only by the most obsessive of dressers in the UK for many years. Indeed, it was only really when Fjäll was stocked by Oi Polloi (back in 2002) that its popularity shot through the wife. Overnight the label became seen as the next big thing on the casual scene as many looked to move away from goggled jackets and checked scarves instead preferring a more functional and understated look. Sure enough, Fjäll, though initially stocked by only two UK stores, was appearing on terraces and in shops up and down the country.

I've had various bits of Fjäll take up considerable space in my wardrobe from time to time; it's a brand I keep coming back to. The highlights of this have been the aforementioned Greenland jacket, which is just classic 1960's cool, and an Osaka jacket which I recently picked up for a bargain price and is warm as you like. I've also owned various shirts by them at one point or another.

What you see is what you get with Fjäll – an outdoors brand primarily, they've never allowed themselves to be dictated by what's fashionable at any given time. They tend to stick to what they know; hard wearing and functional gear that doesn't break the bank. The fact they know it very well has seen them produce several classics – the Nordli, the Greenland and the Kanken bags are among them.

The masses seem to have moved on to other things now (with ill fitting and brightly coloured tracksuits that are best left to the 1980's appearing to be the order of the day) and so it's fair to say Fjäll is a label that can hold its own with just about any others in terms of value for money and effortless style.

Interview - Steve Sanderson

2010-10-19T10:23:00.000-07:00

Established under the moniker "talent borrows, genius steals", Oi Polloi was set up by Nigel Lawson and Steve Sanderson back in 2002. In the eight years that have followed, Oi Polloi has been a resounding success; establishing itself as one of the finest menswear shops in Britain and pioneering many brands previously unheard of on these shores such as Fjällräven and Native Craftworks.

The shop has recently moved out of its premises in Manchester's Northern Quarter and we thought it would be a great time to see how things are going for them. Co-founder Steve spoke to us about many things, including the relocation of the shop, his almost lifelong obsession with clothing and his future plans for Oi Polloi.

You have recently relocated Oi Polloi. How is business going?
The new store's worked out very well – better than we expected. We were a little bit worried about how our core customers would react to the change but it's cool; everyone seems to love the new store.

Have you always harboured an ambition to run your own menswear shop?
I'd suppose so, yeah. Before this I used to cut hair which was something that I really just fell into after a spell at art college. I was pretty good at it. However, I was far more obsessed with clothes and shoes than I ever was obsessed with cutting hair.

How long have been passionate about clothing for?
I've been into clothes from a pretty early age. I think it all started when I was around seven or eight years old. I don't think I appreciated the full extent of what I was about to step into. Things started to get properly out of hand when I started secondary school. It's been an obsession ever since.

Had you any experience in retail or the menswear industry prior to Oi Polloi?
No, none whatsoever except from buying clothes for myself. However, I had run my own business before Oi Polloi was born. When we first set up the shop, I was cutting hair in the basement in order to bring customers into the store. I've learnt on the job, mainly. I don't think I was a bad student – it's pretty easy learning about a subject you love.

What prompted you to set up Oi Polloi?
It's simple really. There was a total lack of good shops selling the type of clothing we wanted to wear. The actual idea to do it ourselves came about at a friend's birthday party. It was the usual night of talking bollocks except this time we actually went out and did it.

How would you sum up the overall philosophy or ethos behind Oi Polloi?
It's about good design, classic design, quality, substance, heritage & style.

Was it hard finding the right location for the shop?
No, we already knew which shop it had to be.

Oi Polloi started out selling a lot of vintage gear – old Lacoste and deadstock adidas – but no longer does this. Do you ever envisage a return to stocking vintage clothes or do you think it's best left to other shops?
It's best left to other shops now in all honesty. We've got enough on our plate as it is and there are some great vintage shops close to us.

Oi Polloi has developed gradually over the years. How did you drive up interest at the start and how do you promote the shop now?
It started largely as word of mouth and then we discovered the Internet. The rest as they say, is history (sorry). Once we got the web site up and running that's when people started to notice us a little bit more. We were just trying to turn what we'd done with the store into a web site. There was no grand plan, other than a spot of world domination.

As well as the shop there have been other extensions of the Oi Polloi 'brand' such as the collaborations with R. Newbold as well as the publication of the Rig Out. Are there any other areas you're looking to try your hand at?
I don't want to give the game away too much.

We've been busy sorting Pica Sounds music collaborations. There's also more to come from the Rig Out as well as further clothing and footwear collaborations. Oh, and we're working on our own label – Cottonopolis. Remember where you heard it first (maybe not quite first, but near enough).

Would you say there's been a secret to Oi Polloi's success?
To be honest, there's been no secret to the success of the store.

What brands are you planning on working with?
There's going to be more Oi Polloi collaborations with Henri Lloyd and Norse Projects.

Is more money made from online sales than in store?
It's a big growth area in terms of sales online but so is the new Thomas Street store.

Part of what makes Oi Polloi different to other shops is the fact that you're constantly searching out new brands and styles, often before many other shops are there. Is this done deliberately in order to make Oi Polloi stand out?
It's not deliberate, it's just what we do. We can't help ourselves.

How do you find these brands?
I think we find these labels because we are always on the lookout. We never stop.

Would it not be less risky to stock more established labels or do you feel that people are always on the lookout for something new, no matter how obscure?
It's definitely not just about being obscure. We don't want to be wearing the same stuff as everybody else. The differences are subtle. That's the game, we know the difference and appreciate it more than most.

From a personal point of view, what are your favourite labels that you've stocked?
This list could go on and on, there's so many. Some of the my favourites have been Engineered Garments, Gitman shirts, Ralph Lauren, Lacoste (polo shirts), Levi's Vintage, Burlington, Clarks, Persol, Yuketen, Arrow, Superga, Gloverall and so many more.

What other shops are you a fan of?
I was a big fan of J. Simon and Hurleys back in the early eighties, and Aspecto later on that decade. Duffer was also great in the early nineties while Liberty's was pretty decent in the late nighties and eartly noughties.

Thanks for your time Steve – it's really appreciated. One final question: ten or fifteen years down the line, where would you like to see Oi Polloi?
As one of the best men's clothing shops in the world. It's not much to ask, is it?

Jimmy Jazz would like to extend a big thank you to Steve for answering our questions. If you haven't already, check out the Oi Polloi shop or website and get with the programme, already!

Interview - James Brown

2010-10-15T09:58:00.000-07:00

James Brown has been described as the 'father of the lad's mag', having been responsible for the establishment of Loaded in 1994 - a magazine which was not only the first of its type but was said to have defined a generation. Having departed Loaded in the late nineties, James kept himself busy with jobs at GQ and setting up further publications such as Jack Magazine.

His latest venture is the online magazine, Sabotage Times. With a focus on music, football, fashion, as well as TV and film, Sabotage Times has a lot in common with what we like in life James recently gave up a bit of his time to have a chat with us about his career, his latest venture, the secrets to a successful magazine as well as a slightly unusual holiday to Scotland.

First off, I'd like to thank you for your time James. Tell us a bit about how you found yourself in the journalism business. Was it something you had planned on becoming? What were your first steps?
I left school and read Hunter Thompson and Tom Wolfe, wanted a job on the NME, and started a fanzine. People like John Peel said things like 'this boy can write' on the air and the music papers printed my letters and that boosted my confidence and I would send reviews and letters in until someone gave me a chance. One of my first reviews for the NME was for my own band, a band who weren't serious about making it, this didn't go down too well on the Leeds 6 music scene. I guess I was lucky, but my definition of luck is when ambition meets opportunity. There was nothing for me where I come from so I knew I had to get somewhere else to find something I wanted. Music was my way out. I didn't go to university or college, just read at home on the dole and travelled the country selling my fanzine. For inspiration and entertainment I listened to The Specials and The Jam and The Redskins and The Clash.

You worked for a number of publications before establishing Loaded in 1994. Which of these did you most enjoy working for and why?
I had reviews and short interviews published in the Leeds Other Paper, ZigZag, jamming! and Sounds. The editor of Sounds, Tony Stewart, really gave me my first proper break he gave me six cover stories in six weeks. Then I got approached by the NME to become the staff writer.

That was where I learnt most about editing. The NME in those days sold 75,000 copies. By the time I left five years later we were selling over 125,000. It was a period of great change for music during 87-92. Acid house, hip-hop, indie, goth, thrash metal, world music, pop all appeared in the pages of the paper and were argued about endlessly in the office. There were a lot of big characters already there like Steven Wells (who had encouraged me to do reviews for them), Danny Kelly who is now on TalkSport and Dr Stuart Cosgrove who is now very influential at Channel 4 - all big opinionated gobshites, like myself. It was a noisy office. Guys I had read like Gavin Martin, Sean O'Hagan, David Quantick and Adrian Thrills were also on the staff. As were people who had written about music I liked like Dele Fadele and Neil Taylor. It was a very fast moving, loud, dog eat dog environment and into it I introduced Barbara Ellen, Stuart Maconie, Andrew Collins and others. There was a great editor who kept promoting me - Alan Lewis. I was thankful for that.

I rehired the cartoonist Ray Lowry and photographer Kevin Cummins who had both been let go. I got to travel round the world writing about music. I interviewed the Happy Mondays, The Cult, Morrissey, Kiefer Sutherland, New Order, The Pixies, the Stone Roses, The Charlatans, Mick Jones, Primal Scream, The Jesus and Mary Chain, The Pet Shop Boys, The Manics, Public Enemy, Rick Rubin, The Beastie Boys ad many, many more. It was a great education.

The people I knew who had gone off to university were leaving and having to go on the dole at just around the same time as I was sitting in the Hyatt on Sunset, LA, thinking I was in Led Zepellin waiting for Rick Rubin to show up in his Corvette. They were remarkable experiences for a kid who had never had a job apart from a milk round before. I was glad at that point I hadn't been able to concentrate in school.

What prompted you to set up Loaded?
During an interview where I was applying for the NME editorship, my old boss Alan Lewis mentioned the idea of me doing my own magazine. When they didn't give me the NME job he set me off to create my own mag. I wanted a men's magazine that was full of stuff I was into like football, comedians, drinking and so on.

What challenges did you face when setting Loaded up?
It took a long time to get the big publishing house we were developing it in, to give it the green light. We also struggled getting the right cover style and design, right up to the very end when we were about to launch we still had no clear idea of who was going to design it. Then the art editor of Select rang up and asked for a job and he designed a great logo that same night. The magazine industry en masse said it would fail and men would never read magazines. Even people at the publishing house were knocking it. They were all wrong. Alan, I and the Loaded team were right.

Why do you think Loaded was such an enormous success?
It was funny, self-deprecating and covered subjects men were really into. It knew it's subject matter inside out and was written from an honest and enthusiastic perspective. We didn't think we were better than the readers and we gave lots of beer away. We made having a great time look easy and we were keen to include the reader in the fun. I also found and gave a platform to some very good writers and photographers.

What caused your departure from Loaded in 1997?
A mysterious and funny American guy offered me a fucking massive amount of money to go and work for him - something the company I was making millions for hadn't ever done. Also the Loaded publishers interfered with our announcement that Martin Deeson and I were going to stand for Parliament. As soon as they started doing that I thought 'that's it, I'm off'. The place I went to had a ratio of 400 women to 60 men. It didn't take a lot of selling.

From Loaded you moved to GQ, a magazine which was going through a lot of trouble at the time. What strategy did you pursue in order to revitalise GQ?
I had to get people to know it even existed and also that it knew who were the iconic figures for young men in the late nineties. It didn't really mean anything to many people. So we stuck people like Paul Weller, Eric Cantona ad Oasis on the cover. That was just to say 'have a look here, it's not as stiff as you might think'. It was like turning an oil tanker round as the sales were half what the company were declaring and the staff weren't really up to speed with what was going on in the real world. I hired an unknown chef called Jamie Oliver from the River Café to write about food, hired Tony Parsons to write about men and brought in a few other new faces. The sales improved significantly and the title won its first publishing award for quite a few years, so that boosted morale. The publisher and I also flew to New York to have a look at this thing American GQ did called 'Man of The Year' and we came back and decided to launch it in the UK. I enjoyed the environment and professionalism of the company and it was a luxurious place to work but at that time it wasn't really me. They essentially produced magazines for advertisers where as I'd come from magazines that were for the readers.

Was there a big difference in the audience you catered for when you left Loaded for GQ? Are British and American tastes quite different?
The Loaded audience was massive and a lot of them were very together guys with a lot going on. The GQ audience was very small and when I saw them during research groups I realised they read GQ to find out how to be cool. Sort of David Brent types - it was a bit of shock.

Jack Magazine was established in 2002. Tell us about what you were trying to do there.
I was nervous of doing another men's mag because I knew there was no way I could do another Loaded, so we made it as different as possible - funny name, drawings on the cover, pictures of mountains and lions. It took a few issues to get going but it soon became a great read which the readers loved. A bigger publishing house would have bent over backwards to make it more commercial, which is something I should probably have done. I was really into the idea of reflecting a lot of the National Geographic and Discovery Channel content.

You're currently focusing on Sabotage Times. Tell us a bit about that.
Go here - http://www.sabotagetimes.com/ - and make up your own mind. I think it's full of a lot of funny and interesting columnists and articles.

Who or what is your target market with Sabotage Times?
People who enjoy reading journalism and opinion and like looking at great video clips. Hopefully other editors who need content and have a budget will use it as a window for our syndication and content service.

What makes Sabotage Times different from your previous projects?
We have over one hundred thousand unique visitors a month, eight hundred articles and a lot of video clips but no office or real staff to speak of - just a couple of editors, an assistant and some volunteers. It's a product of keyboards and the internet. It's been edited from beaches, kitchens, bathrooms, gardens and a yacht. We've never met the people who built it but we've seen their office through skype when our designers '&&& Creative' called us from Prague.

What's been the highlight with Sabotage Times so far?
Publishing really funny stories and watching them go viral and watching the analytics just clocking up by hundreds a minute.

Will we ever see Sabotage Times in print format or do you only see it as an online magazine?
Yes, I think we could well do some magazines. We're already investing in one that will come out next year and will have 'Published by Sabotage Times' written on the inside back page.

Is there a secret to a producing a successful publication?
Publish material that the readers will want to read every word of.

What other magazines do you enjoy reading?
I get The Week, Fortean Times, FourFourTwo, Esquire, Junior all sent to the house. Magazines I've come across recently: Spikes is an interesting looking athletics magazine, Sideburn is a great bike mag, Proper is a really good little mag for men into clothes not fashion.

What's been your most interesting or fun experience from your time in journalism?
Sleeping in a cave on an island off Scotland, testing crisps, and playing football with Stan Bowles, then reading about it afterwards. Imagine your best ever holiday chronicled by your favourite writer. That's what some of the Loaded adventures were like.

Also, meeting a lot of very nice people who had taken the time to buy the magazine and are happy to say how much they enjoyed it.

Finally, what advice would you give to a young writer wanting to become a journalist?
Don't start writing until you can see the deadline, get someone else to transcribe your interviews, and always write the end of the article at the start so you've got something good to finish on when you're knackered at 3am in the morning.

Jimmy Jazz would like to thank James for taking the time out to talk to us. We would recommend visiting his new site - Sabotage Times.

Confessions of a Northern Monkey

2010-10-14T09:22:00.000-07:00

Preston North End have been through many lows and significantly fewer highs in the past thirty years. One man who can claim to have lived and breathed them all is Bill Routledge. Having declined contributing to various "hooligan" books throughout the years, Bill decided it was time to finally put pen to paper on his experiences following Preston up and down the country and England around various corners of the globe.

A humorous yet serious insight into life as a football casual, "Waiting for Glory" has been on bookshelves for over two years now but its phenomenal success has seen it recently be re-released under a new banner – "Oh Yes, Oh Yes, We Are the PPS".

We recently had a chat with Bill about a great deal of things – his motivation behind publishing his own book, his addiction to football violence, as well as his latest project.

First things first – thanks a lot for taking the time out do this interview, Bill.
Firstly, could I thank you too for managing to slot this catechize in during your busy schedule at Jimmy Jazz HQ. I also hope the interrogation isn’t half as grilling and intense as some that I’ve had over the years! Coz, if so, I might go no comment on some of the questions – ha.

What made you want to write about your experiences at the football?
Since the publication of Steaming In, Colin Ward, and Bloody Casuals, Jay Allen, in 1989, bookstores shelves have been a flooded with literature on the genre of the darker side of following football in erstwhile times. Bygone eras when lacing up a pair of boots on a Saturday wasn’t reserved just to the kit man at some soulless Premiership Club, for a prima donna so-called footballer who hasn’t got a clue how to do so, or a multifarious pair with Velcro straps - like things are nowadays. Only around the early to mid-Nineties I was approached on several occasions about contributing to books on the same ilk off diverse individuals whom I did, and didn’t know – I declined their offers because of a multitude of reasons. I’d never really taken timeout and sat down to read at length any of the biography’s on shenanigans at the match, I’d merely flicked through such books.

But, while away on duty in Germany for the World Cup in ’06, my mobile began both ringing and vibrating with messages at an alarming rate. The local rag back home had run a feature on a newly released book; Hooligans 2, by Nick Lowles & Andy Nicholls. In this book someone named Billy had told their stories about following Preston North End over the years, and many associates of mine presumed it was me – presumption, eh! Well, is wasn’t. But as usual, the finger was being pointed, once again. These stories on North End in the book were from a different epoch from when I were running amok in the UK (and on foreign soil, too). I’d been asked to be bestower to the inscriptions in the said book though, only I waned the invite once again.

Once back in Blighty the phone went again – it being a close mate – asking if I would consider putting pen to paper on putting the record straight on what really went on, on PNE match days and he would cover our England trips. After mulling over 30 years of hurt, and asking her-in-doors who wears the pants, the conclusion was YES, I would – what was I letting myself in for?

The main problem was that it was nearly 30 years since I’d written anything of length, apart from Crimbo and birthday cards, and statements of innocence for numerous allegations over the years. So, I’d to re-educate myself, brushing up on my wide knowledge of English, read the copious lore’s on naughtiness to get a feel of ‘what sells’ and get my head into gear for 4 or 5 nights writing a week for near on two years.

How did your mates react to the news that you were going to be writing a book about the experiences you shared with them?
Most were full of encouragement and vast minefields of priceless information that the old cerebrum hadn’t absorbed due to being intoxicated or in a narcotic trance at the period of juncture – just say no, children. Most asked for their names to be altered for the content of the book though. These ‘mates’ range from hod carriers, clay artists, teachers, solicitors and even a lad who’s now a millionaire! Stick that in your pipe and smoke it. Other’s scorned, chortled and some sadly commented that I would never pull it off – I must add 99% of these were behind my back. One report even came back through the grapevine that it was a form of grassing. Really? For someone who has more skeletons in their closet than Chas off CasualCo has coats in his wardrobe, I wouldn’t dream of dropping anyone in any defecation. They should have known me better. I guess, they didn’t really know me at all then? He who laughs last, laughs loudest – or summet along them lines.

What was the appeal of football violence to you?
It was a way of life for most football going youths back then. ‘It’ seemed to go hand-in-hand with be young, watching football and, you’d to defend your End for the pride of Club – extreme loyalty to the core. Reflecting on ones misdemeanours today, they’re rather impetuous and nonsensical but impassioned undertaken deeds nonetheless. And these happenings are social history of the time and need documenting, just like the Mods ‘n’ Rockers knocking seven bells out of each other on Brighton beach in the Sixties, and so on.

I will also say, I was addicted to FV, and desideratum dictated that I required my fix every week.

If you had to pick your favourite moment from following either Preston or England down the years, what would it be?
North End would be beating Birmingham on penalties at Deepdale, in the two-legged Play-off’s in season 2000/01. The Play-off Final at Cardiff’s Millennium Stadium, were a step to far again to reaching the Promised Land, the Premiership . And the final at the same venue in 2004/05, is one of the worst moments/games witnessed – a 1-0 defeat at the hands of the ‘ammers, who we’d thumped home & away the term. I’ve had more lows following the Lilywhites that highs I can tell you, plenty.

England: it has got to be the 5-1 annihilation of the Germans in Munich, 1st September 2001 – the game is etched in the grey matter forever. Munich Magic. A Michael Owen hat-trick, Stevie G chipping in and, even Heskey scored – I’m sure there was a song that did the rounds? The trip became a full blown winner. A mate and me had been double booked on the flight home to Manchester so, they sorted alternative ones viva Southampton first class – free drinks, the full Monty - and, gave us 150 quid compo – we’d only paid £55 for 'em anyway, ha. At tournaments England’s performances have always been a letdowns, apart from Italia ’90. But the Sours stole our passage in to the final that WC, again –less said the better. Great times to follow England though.

Waiting for Glory was self published. Was there a lot of financial risk in doing it this way?
Yes, and no. Aside from putting my balls on the chopping block, I’d to shell out around 5k to get the book to print with associated costs. And the first run of 2,000 - delivered to my doorstep within 24hrs one Friday afternoon - were, to put it politely, cocked-up! They’d printed one chapter twice and missed one out. The launch I’d booked for the Saturday kinda went ahead, venue paid for, DJ & band booked and, two humongous pans of Lancashire hot-pot made plus mushy, red cabbage and gorgeous Northern gravy on the go too. I say kinda went ahead. The Old Bill closed it down before the band had finished setting-up – a story in itself. We’d to throw 95% of the hot-pot in the bin, heartbreaking indeed.

The second launch was a success done by word of mouth, mum’s the word fashion.

One of the main reasons for self-publishing was that I didn’t want to be forced to chop and change stories and have some form of ghost writer get a grip of the anecdotes and end up finding my ‘humorousness’ didn’t shimmer through the ramblings. I also didn’t want to glorify, advocate or promote violence in any kind of form whatever, just bury quite a lot of skeletons. Also, Borders went bang on us owing me a large cash sum and monies off certain others are still owed to this day.

A near two years later and I’d completely sold-out, bar the odd copy here and there. And, due to WFG’s phenomenal success, John Blake Publishers took the book on. They’ve heave-hoed the England stories and snipped a bit of celebrate substance text too, but there’s still 433 pages to flick through while on the khazi.

You are currently working on another book: Northern Monkeys. Tell us a bit about this. How will it differ from Waiting for Glory/ Oh Yes, Oh Yes, We Are the PPS?
Yeah, I’ve been on with Northern Monkeys for over twelve months now – a labour of love, in working progress. It will differ vastly from my first foray in to writing because you must have comprehended that there was a main nucleus to yarns in WFG/Oh Yes... NM’s will have fables on cults, music and fashion plus much, much more since the ‘50’s, in the North, wedged between its bindings. These urban narratives of subcultures, dancehalls & clobber aren’t myths and need airing. The list of raconteurs and fabulists onboard is quite impressive too – if I say so myself.

The book covers a fifty year span. Have you found it difficult to research and write about all of the subcultures which took place during these years?
I have, to an extent, because my stories and incidents that occurred, involved me in some which way or form that are documented in WFG/Oh Yes... There’s a saying that if you stick to what you know, you can’t go far wrong. So, this is why I’ve been very lucky that people that have been through experiences and era’s that I have only read or watch on TV are willing to shed light on their diverse enclaves within subdivisions. And, the roots of different integrated networks of behaviourally beliefs and attitudes of these cults – if you get the gist of the drift? They all have stories tell, and they tell them well too. Most contributors are Northerners but, there is the odd shandy drinker that I’ve let write a short saga to defend themselves in the book – isn’t there Jimmy!

Nearer the time of Northern Monkeys release I’ll explain in detail the books full contents, maybe over an ale that you buy me down The Smoke?

How did you contact people and convince them to contribute to the book?
I only learned to switch a PC on 3 years ago – WFG was dictated. But I knew quite a lot of the ‘faces’ that have embraced what I want to capture about the grim North before setting off on my quest to do so. Others I’ve got to know through friends of friends. Some I’ve dropped an email. And there’s characters who approached me on hearing about the project. The project of putting the story straight of which came first - the chicken, or the egg?

They’re a great motley, heterogeneous bunch to say the least. Their ages range from 67 years, down to whippier snappers of just seventeen. So, hopefully, Northern Monkeys will be of curiosity – that killed the cat – not only to Northerners but southerners too. Plus, every generation that’s shown a preoccupation in what was ‘happening’ at their moment in time. And, what they’ve left for further generations to read with inquisition about, or grimace at.

We'd like to thank Bill for taking the time out for this chat. "Oh Yes, Oh Yes, We Are the PPS" can be purchased online from Amazon or from most decent bookstores. It's a great read.

We'd also recommend visiting Bill's site – Waiting For Glory.

Henri Lloyd x Oi Polloi

2010-10-05T10:46:00.000-07:00

Two of Manchester's biggest names in menswear have collaborated with one another to produce this range of sailing inspired jackets. Renowned retailer Oi Polloi has a history of successful collaborations, previously having worked with the likes of Norse Projects and R. Newbold. Their latest effort sees them teaming up with Henri Lloyd, a label once famed for its use of groundbreaking fabrics in nautical clothing.

Now seems like the pefect time for Henri Lloyd to relaunch itself. Having lost its popularity with many due to mass production and over saturation on the high street, this collaboration with the increasingly popular Oi Polloi has provided Henri Lloyd with the perfect opportunity to tap into a market which has well and truly deserted them.

It's good to see Lloyd returning to their roots of proper sailing inspired gear and ignoring the streetwear stuff that's fallen into the catalogues in recent years and seen their popularity (and product quality) fall dramatically. Both of the two jackets are styles which have been dug up from the extensive Henri Lloyd archive and are styles which Mr. Lloyd originally conceived in the sixties.

The first jacket (and in our humble, the best) is the Viking Smock (pictured above) – an overhead cagoule made from the "Bri-Nylon" fabric. The attention to detail on this jacket is nothing short of fantastic with features including drawstrings (at the hood, waist and hem), a large and Kangaroo pouch pocket on the jacket's front and two smaller, handy pockets below it. These are available in four colours – orange, royal blue (the pick of the bunch), yellow and white.

The other jacket available is the Consort Round the World Jacket (pictured above), which itself is a reproduction of an earlier collaboration between Henri Lloyd and renowned Italian designer Olmes Carretti. Though not quite to our tastes (the logo's a tad loud), there is no doubting this is another quality design. These are available in both navy and sky blue.

You only have to look at the recent craze for fisherman's inspired cagoules and jackets to understand that these jackets are going to fly off the shelves of Manchester's finest store. The price of these jackets isn't astronomical either. In fact we'd hazard a guess that these may well fetch a price on a certain online auction site which is equal to or higher than their original retail cost. Available now from Oi Polloi.

The Forgotten Stone

2010-09-30T10:12:00.000-07:00

His six year tenure (1969-1975) as guitarist for the Rolling Stones came at a time which saw the band release their two defining masterpieces; Sticky Fingers and Exile on Main Street, yet despite this Mick Taylor's contribution to the "greatest rock and roll band in the world" is criminally underlooked – by both fans and his former band mates.

Following the untimely (yet ultimately inevitable) departure and death of Brian Jones, Taylor was picked as the founding member's replacement despite his initial expectations of only being a session musician. His onstage debut came at Jones' Hyde Park tribute concert in front of a crowd estimated at a quarter of a million.

Despite adding overdubs on two tracks from Let It Bleed, Taylor's virtuoso guitarplay only really began to show its full force on the epic follow up – Sticky Fingers. While he contributed arguably two of the finest songs on the album in "Sway" and "Moonlight Mile", it was with his techical brilliance on lead guitar where Taylor's presence was felt fully. The extended coda of "Can't You Hear Me Knocking" can be attributed entirely to Taylor while he single handedly out performs all of the other band members on the Stone's live release, Get Yer Ya-Ya's Out!

Why then, you may well ask, has Taylor never received the recognition he deserves?

There are many reasons for this. While Taylor outclassed every guitarist the Stones had before and have had since, and in doing so helped elevate them from a blues-rock outfit to a band that could contend with the musicianship of the likes of Cream and Led Zeppelin, there remains precious little to remember him by.

Sure, he left behind an arsenal of great guitar licks yet most of these are wrongly cited as Richards' efforts. Mick had the swagger, Richards had the image and Jones had the rockstar's death. What did Taylor have? He lacked stage presence and never really fitted in with the Stones on a personal note.

Taylor has since said that he felt a failure to leave the band would have resulted in his own death but it's hard to believe that there wasn't an element of jealousy from other members – especially Richards – which played a part in his departure. Taylor can easily be described as the glue which held the band together during its golden age. Richards had already given himself over to drugs and a life of excess and Jagger was soon to become nothing more than a cariacture of himself.

Is it any real surprise that Taylor's arrival coincided with the band's greatest output and his depature led to their worst?

I'd hazard a guess at saying no.

It's a sad state of affairs to see that this great guitarist hasn't been paid any royalties from his former band mates since 1982, but is it really a shock? While Jagger and co have sold their souls down the drain for monetary gain, Taylor now makes do with life in a Suffolk semi. Life's a bitch, eh?

Photos were taken from The Selvedge Yard.

The Rig Out #3

2010-09-29T02:58:00.001-07:00

Soon to hitting the shelves (and website) of Oi Polloi and various other select stockists is The Rig Out, a magazine compiled by Glenn Kitson. This will be the third edition of the magazine and features include stunning photography of remote Norwegian hillsides, an appearance from the cyclist James Bowthorpe, as well as the usual showcasing of genuinely brilliant clothing from the likes of Nigel Cabourn and Stone Island.

Recent Purchase - Weinbrenner Thorgood Oxfords

2010-09-27T08:02:00.000-07:00

It's been a while since we last had some stuff coming through the door at Jimmy Jazz HQ. This time the latest edition to the wardrobe comes in the shape of a pair of Duluth Thorogood Oxford shoes. I'm a big fan of hard wearing footwear and these are spot on.

Manufactured in the USA, these ace shoes are produced by Weinbrenner, a company whom have been leaders in footwear manufacturing and pioneering in the American shoemaking industry ever since their inception in 1892. They have, as you would expect for a company dating back to over one hundred years, some serious pedigree and experience in manufacturing durable footwear. This is no more evident than in this pair of Oxfords.

Winter isn't the time to be walking about in suede desert boots or trainers and so a good pair of Oxfords have fitted the bill very nicely indeed. They're tough, sturdy and ace on the eye – there is nothing not to like about these shoes.

A Connoisseur's Cagoule

2010-09-12T10:49:00.001-07:00

As those who read this blog regularly will no doubt know, here at Jimmy Jazz we are big fans of the iconic cagoules of the eighties. Izod Lacoste and Patrick both became famous for their efforts but king among them were the Peter Storm cagoules – true icons of terrace style which became famous when worn by match going lads during the explosion of casual culture in the late seventies.

Therefore it'll come as no surprise to you that when we heard that the Casual Connoisseur would be producing a direct replica of the Peter Storm cagoules we soon became suitably interested. The original cagoules were indeed fairly innovative at the time with such advances as increased breathability, the Connoisseur cagoule will be updated yet further with several technical advances being used to bring a new slant to this classic piece of outerwear.

While some of you may immediately think that these are little more than a rip-off of the original efforts, they do indeed have the blessing of Mr. Paul Bibby – Noel Bibby's son and successor at Peter Storm until its takeover by Millets. He's even gone as far as to give them the manufacturer's he used and personally we think it's nice to see a label go about a reinvention in the correct way.

Details are scarce at the minute but we believe that the cagoule will be available in three different colours. Any preferences, anyone?

Interview - Joe Schindler (Joe & Co)

2010-09-12T02:18:00.001-07:00

Joe Schindler is a man with some serious pedigree behind him. Having worked in the industry in one form or another for nearly thirty years, Joe has overseen and owned projects such as Schindler's Menswear in Stockport which was, until its recent closure, Stockport's finest clothing shop, stocking some of the best labels out there.

In this interview we discuss Joe's latest project – Joe & Co – as he offers us his expert insight into the great (yet sometimes confusing) world of premium Japanese denim.

Tell us a bit about yourself. What other projects have you worked on or with prior to Joe & Co?
I have worked within the clothing industry in various roles since 1980. I was both the owner and creative director of Josef Jeans until 1998 and until recently I owned Schindler's Menswear in Stockport.

When did you begin to take an interest in denim?
My interest in the world of denim began to take hold around the late eighties, specifically when I launched Josef Jeans in 1987.

Where did the idea for Joe & Co come from?
The idea for Joe & Co basically came from the huge passion which I have for denim. It was probably when working on the Josef Jeans collection in the early nineties as there was not really anybody doing niche denim in UK at the high level which I wanted to do that the idea became a serious one.

What's the philosophy that underpins Joe & Co?
The philosophy of the Joe & Co brand is to understand the fundamentals of the denim that we use and also how the garments and components are made. We strive for the perfect fit which is really the holy grail when it comes to a pair of jeans. "Good things come to those who wait..."

Does Joe & Co denim come in a range of styles and fits?
Joe & Co denim will come in four fits and styles. While these will vary from time to time, this will never be to a great extent. I guess this is because we believe that too much change can effect the ethos of the brand.

What brands have inspired the Joe & Co garments?
I wouldn't go as far to say that there are specific brands that inspire me. My inspiration comes from all over the place - and all walks of life. However, if you were to pinpoint me on that, then I would have to say that labels such as Sugarcane, Waste Twice, Anachronorm are those closest to offering real inspiration.

The Japanese have always had a big interest in selvedge denim. Do you feel it's starting to catch on more over here?
The Japanese are the masters of selvedge denim. The term 'selvedge' is used too loosely in the commercial side of the industry with too many brands using this term within their collections in order to gain notoriety yet still mass produce their product to a level whereby brands like ourselves, Sugarcane and many more will gain more credability within our market share.

There are also brands using the term 'Japanese denim' yet their products are washed in other countries like Turkey, Tunisia and so forth. Joe & Co denim is from Japan, made in Japan, and if I ever decide to wash the garments, then they will be washed in Japan.

Selvedge denim always seems to be something that confuses people or they can't quite get their heads around it. Can you explain what it is and what it's benefits are?
Selvedge denim is the result of how the fabric is finished. It keeps the fabric from fraying and is made on shorter looms which around 27-29 inches wide. These can take upto 3mts of fabric useage where other denim for the masses is made on wider looms at 58-65 inches wide.

I've always been baffled by certain people's unwillingness to spend a decent amount on a pair of jeans when they are more than happy to spend serious money on a coat or pair of old trainers. Is this something which irritates you? Why do you think it is like this?
For me, denims are as or even more important than what shoes or jacket you are wearing. However, it does not irritate me as such, simply because people's perceptions are different. The UK is a very fickle market and most people just do not understand the benefits of Japanese selvedge denim as it's too expensive for them to justify to themselves.

If you purchase a pair of Joe & Co jeans what care needs to be taken with them?
I'm a firm believer that all Japanese denim should be bought in its raw state and only washed inside out once every three to six months. Of course this all depends on how many times they have been worn. This will give the wearer his own unique and individual look that no company or chemical wash will be able to replicate.

Wash inside out using cold water, no detergent (or very little if you must) and leave to drip dry.

Is there anything that differentiates Joe & Co from your standard selvedge denim?
The differences between Joe & Co denim and other selvedge brands can vary quite a lot. I guess it all depends on what you want from the brand and how much your prepared to pay for that.

A lot of denim companies now make use of Japanese denim. Is this a serious indicator of superior quality or does it very much depend on where exactly in Japan the jeans are manufactured?
Joe & Co Denim is made in Ibara, Okayama - this is the home of Japanese denim. We use only the finest craftsmen and denim mills in the world today. The techniques that are used in the manufacturing process have stood the test of time; they have been passed down from generation to generation. These craftsmen are perfectionists, and this is why the price tag on the products is as it is.

I've noticed that Joe & Co do not only produce denim products. Can you tell us about these?
We will also be producing shirting and sweats. However, these will be in very limited edition runs, much like the denims are.

What are your future plans with Joe & Co?
While at the moment we are targeting the Japanese and American market with the Joe & Co brand, we will eventually bring it the the shores of the UK. This will hopefully happen soon.

Do you have any other projects lined up?
I have a couple of projects lined up, of which one will being launched in January 2011 for AW11. This is effectively a diluted version of Joe & Co for the UK & European markets and this will be a full collection.

With regards to the name of the brand, you will have to wait until November before we release any news. However, keep your eye on Facebook as there will be some snippets added or look on my Joe & Co Denim Facebook page.

We'd like to thank Joe for kindly providing us with this interview. If you are interested in the Joe & Co products then I would recommend visiting the official site, where their full range of products can be both viewed and purchased.

It's War!

2010-09-06T11:15:00.000-07:00

Those with even a passing interest in modern art and graffiti will no doubt be familiar with the works of Banksy – the man whose identity remains a mystery for many. His work is both varied and iconic. For those who aren't familiar with it, you should be.

It appears that Banksy may have bitten off more than he can chew however and murmurings within the graffiti community are suggesting that he may be entering a 'graffiti feud' with London artist Robbo after Banksy included a character from one of Robbo's works (dating back 25 years) in his latest piece (see above).

Needless to say Robbo has responded (see below), and we await Bansky's response with interest...

A Longmeadow Morning

2010-09-05T00:27:00.000-07:00

Put together by Neil Bedford (who has also worked with the likes of Heritage Research) and modelled by John Brown of Oi Polloi, Penfield's Fall / Winter lookbook entitled "A Longmeadow Morning" shows off their roots well as an outdoors brand. Not only this, but it also provides an indication of where the brand seems to be headed.

This isn't just a cool collection of images though. The lookbook manages to showcase some of Penfield's best designs this season. All the usual suspects are in here in one form or another – down jackets, flannel shirts and mountain parkas are all included. There's even a plaid shirt (second image) which is the result of a collaboration with Gitman Bros.

If the collection is as good as the lookbook then we are in for a treat. Check it out yourself at the Penfield website.

Art Direction: Andy Bird
Photography: Neil Bedford
Styling and Creative Production: Glenn Kitson

Spot On.

2010-08-20T15:29:00.001-07:00

There are times when you just don't require a jacket with too many quirks, features or pockets. You just need something simple to stop the rain from getting in. This little gem – a Velo Jacket by Universal Works – looks spot on for these occasions.

Based in London and fronted by David Keyte, Universal Works is enjoying a growing reputation in many circles. Inspired by vintage workwear (although to be fair, who isn't at present?) as well as classic British fashion, this is a label that values honesty in its products and this piece is no exception to this ethos.

Following the "less is more" mantra the Velo is a lightweight jacket with just two pockets. It's basic but that's where its appeal lies – in its simplicity. Universal Works are offering the jacket in two colours. While a navy jacket is always a safe bet, I find it very hard to put a foot wrong with a yellow jacket and were I to pick this up then it would definitely be in the yellow, where I would compliment it with a nice pair of raw denims.

Norse Projects x Oi Polloi Waxed Parka

2010-08-18T14:54:00.000-07:00

Manchester favourite Oi Polloi has a history of collaborations having worked with R. Newbold, a subdivision of Paul Smith which has a very large fanbase in Japan, a few years ago and it seems that a return to these collaborations may be on the cards. This waxed parka is the first glimpse of their project with Scandinavian label Norse Projects and it's a promising first sign indeed.

Given that Manchester is known for it's wet weather and Norse Projects is inspired by the very similar Scandinavian climate, this seems like a reasonably good and well thought-out venture. The jacket will be available in three colours – military green, navy and beige. Furthermore it's made in England which can only be a good thing. There is branding present but it's very subtle with a nice patch detail somewhat reminiscent of the Belstaff logo present on the left sleeve.

"If you've heard all they've got to say..."

2010-08-17T11:55:00.000-07:00

Formed from the ashes of the La's, Cast were one of the finest and most underrated band of the Britpop era. These Scouse lads lost their way slightly following their debut album but that album is up there with Britpop's best, filled with tunes such as "Sandstorm", "Finetime" and my personal favourite – "Walkaway".

The lyrical content of the song is pretty self-explanotary: being stuck with something and realising the only way out is to accept it's going nowhere and move on. John Power delivers the lyrics fantastically well with a real sense of heartache coming through his voice. Britpop may have been an era rife with ballads but this effort remains one of the best.

Albam: Autumn/Winter 2010 Preview

2010-08-17T05:44:00.000-07:00

Albam is one of those brands that is ticking all the boxes for me at present. It's understated, great quality, (relatively) reasonably priced and boy, does it look good. What's even better is that it is still relatively under exposed and there are very few stockists at present. I picked up a pair of their selvedge denims for my old man (dead generous, I am) and they, like the majority of their stuff, look and feel great.

Established in 2007, it's fair to say that to many people a lot of Albam's offerings may appear to be a little plain and perhaps even boring upon first glance but once you begin to notice the details and philosophy behind the brand then it's fair to say their simple and classic designs are some of the best coming out of the UK at the minute.

For this winter they are pursuing a "cleaner aesthetic" as well as looking to develop their use of fabrics. Each piece will see a limited release (of 100) and this only adds to the appeal for me. The knitwear, as is most often the case with Albam, looks spot on while the jackets also appear to hit the spot.

I'd imagine that much of this collection will be manufactured in Great Britain where possible.

Below are some photos they've released to whet our appetites.

Jonny Monk

2010-08-13T10:27:00.000-07:00

A friend of mine from the Casual Connoisseur forums, Jonny Monk is a photographer based in Oswestry. While many photographers come from 'arty' backgrounds, Jonny grew up in a family with no real artistic inclinations. However he believes this has helped him to develop a unique style as a lack of obvious influences to draw upon has forced him to experiment in order to discover the best results.

His interest in photography wasn't apparent at an early age but was instead sparked by a present from his father. Jonny explains, "my interest has only been harboured in the last two to three years after my father bought me an old Canon EOS 300D camera to take on a school trip to New York." Since then Jonny has described photography as an "absolute passion" which started with travel photography but then moved on to more artistic and unique takes on well known local areas and landmarks.

Jonny is quick to maintain that photography, in general, isn't an obsessive interest. "I don't carry a camera round with me all the time. I just wake up one day in the mood and see how it turns out. Except when I'm on a photography assignment or a job." He also believes that photography is accessible to everyone in form or another. "Personally, I think that photography is one of those past times and interests that everyone seems to have, whether they pursue it in an artistic sense, just the annual holiday and Christmas snaps, or even just to capture the odd memory of nights out with friends. So in that case, one could argue it's been an interest in everyone's lives, for all of their lives."

Jonny is entirely self-taught and is a firm believer in 'individualism'. But, in his opinion, this has clear benefits. "You won't get noticed if you're the same as everyone else now will you? Picasso was self taught, apparently demonstrating sublime talent during his youth, and look where he is now. (He's dead, but you know what I mean.)"

While he believes that different cameras can open up different possibilities in regards to special effects, Jonny believes ultimately that it is the skill of the man behind the camera who makes a good photograph. "it's down to the photographer to use his/her vision to come up with an aesthetically appealing image. Cameras create the opportunity to expand the image artistically, be it depth of field (how blurred selected parts of the image are), film effects, exposure settings etc. But overall, I'd say it's down to the skill and keen eye of the chap or chapette holding the thing."

Despite struggling (or not wanting) to pinpoint his style, Jonny is most interested in taking unique slants on an area or location, even though it often contradicts the common conception of that place. "Bringing the overlooked to people's attention is quite interesting. A personal representation of an everyday item, which makes people think about it and notice something new is a nice experience. I take pride in bringing beauty to a decayed urban area for example. I also like finding imperfections in areas deemed as 'beautiful'."

An admirer of the works of Gregory Crewsdon and Martin Parr, Jonny is currently pursuing photography as a profession. Armed with a range of both digital and film cameras (and an iPhone app called Hipstamatic) Jonny says "the commissions are building up quite nicely and it's finally looking like it might well happen".

Jonny's photos can be found and bought from his website. You can also follow him on his new blog.

Recent Purchase - L.L. Bean Baxter State Parka

2010-08-13T10:23:00.000-07:00

I recently picked up this L.L. Bean Baxter State Parka. It's a proper vintage effort although I'm not exactly sure how far it dates back. The jacket was made in America and so would have been produced in the early 1990's at the latest as following this the brand opted against continued domestic manufacture and instead shifted production over to the Far East.

L.L. Bean was established in 1912 by Leon Leonwood Bean (hence the L.L.) and has had a notable reputation for producing some of the best outdoors apparel ever since. The company is still headquartered in Freeport, Maine just down the road from the original store.

This parka comes with four pockets, providing plenty of room to keep all your essentials in and meaning you're unlikely to require lugging a bag around with you. Other nice features are embossed buttons and a lovely navy blue lining on the inside of the jacket. This is absolutely ace!

"Talent Borrows, Genius Steals"

2010-08-11T15:43:00.000-07:00

Without doubt one of the most popular online shops out there, Oi Polloi has struck a chord with people from all walks of life. Based in Manchester, Oi Polloi was founded in 2002 by Nigel Lawson and Steve Sanderson. The shop can claim to having played a large part in the increased popularity of numerous brands such as Fjällräven and Filson. Oi Polloi has become famous for keeping its finger on the button and has no doubt brought something to someone's attention at one point. As well as constantly searching for new brands and updating the collections for their favourites, Oi Polloi have also produced some of their own clothes before. One notable collaboration saw them work with R. Newbold which, although a subdivision of Paul Smith, is nigh on impossible to find in the UK as it's main source of custom is with the Japanese.

Below are some photos of Oi Polloi's new store, having relocated to a bigger store relatively recently. I've yet to visit Oi Polloi but when in Manchester this will undoubtedly be my first port of call.

Suave.

2010-08-11T15:17:00.001-07:00

Here's a little look at a few nice pieces that have recently hit the ever reliable Oi Polloi's shelves.

First up are some lovely jackets from Mackintosh – the brand made famous by making the first ever Mac as well as for revolutionising outerwear techonology with the innovation of vulcanising rubber. These three jackets are very nice indeed and I'd gladly wear all of them (not at the same time, of course).

Elsewhere we have the Pendle Jacket by Universal Works. Made with Harris Tweed, this little stunner is somewhat reminiscent of the Cameraman by Nigel Cabourn but for money it's just as nice, and importantly it comes it in at a fraction of the price.

Finally there's the Fred Perry Authentic Wax Anorak with a definite Albam influence on it. Regardless it's a very nice jacket indeed and is made from Millerain cotton (as are many jackets in Albam's collection). This belter comes in a cracking teal colour and while the fact it's Fred Perry may put some people up from first glances it looks to me like a highlight piece.

Mackintosh Kellas Jacket

Mackintosh Forrest Jacket

Universal Works Pendle Jacket

Fred Perry Authentic Wax Anorak

The Winter Wishlist

2010-08-06T09:05:00.000-07:00

Winter is, at least for me, the best time to pick up nice clothes. It's probably also the most important because staying warm in our cold winters is a must. Thankfully this winter has thrown plenty of things my way which I really like the look of. Having got myself a job recently I'm full of hope that I'll be able to actually pick some up, as opposed to staring wishfully at a computer screen which is my normal practice for stuff I cannot afford.

Anyway, without further ado and in no particular order, here are my ten winter wants:

This Universal Works Parka is a thing of beauty. I make no secret of my love for parka coats and this is one that has definitely caught by eye. There's no fur or no frills with it which in my eye can only be a good thing. Universal Works is all about being understated and the clothing is based on a simple mantra: good quality, good looking and affordable. This coat is no different. Featuring a chest pocket and two handwarming pockets, the jacket also has some lovely black buttons which compliment the deep navy colour of the coat wonderfully well. If more colours are available I may opt for something different from blue – not because it doesn't look suave in this colour (it does!) but because my wardrobe is crying out for a splash of colour.

If it's polo shirts you are after then you need not look any further than Ralph Lauren. After all, Ralph and René (Lacoste) are the two men who made the polo shirt popular. Whereas some feel Lacoste has suffered with quality problems recently, I have had no such problems with the 'preppy' garments that Ralph has been churning out. For the winter I will be after some long sleeved efforts. I don't want anything with huge logos or flags on it so I'll be sticking to the small polo player shirts. As for the colours, I'm undecided but these Ralph Lauren Long Sleeve Polo Shirts in chocolate brown and forest pine green look rather nice indeed.

Oliver Spencer takes the best from Americana and Japanese innovation and applies his own classic English touch to create and design the clothes that feature in his range. Sound good? That's because it is. Everyone needs a slightly heavier shirt for the winter and this Oliver Spencer Button Down Shirt is made from 100% cotton flannel and looks to me as if it will hit the spot pefectly. The shirt has a nice quirk with a rounded pocket on the left part of the chest and is also a slim cut shirt so should highlight my ever expanding gut quite accurately - unfortunately.

Everyone needs something to keep their head warm in winter, don't they? My choice this winter will be a Casual Connoisseur Bobble Hat. This label is predominantly renowned for their unique and original tee shirt designs but they are expanding into other areas of clothing. Their first forays into hat making have been suitably successful with the bobble hats flying out as quickly as they came in. For this winter they will be producing two hats. One will stick to the same design but feature new colours while the other will showcase an entirely new design. They should be arriving in a few months or so – my money will be waiting for them.

Winter is not the time to be going out in your rare suede adidas trainers and a good, sturdy pair of boots or durable shoes is a must. These can be expensive at the best of times so I may have to wait for the sales if I'm to grab myself a pair. This pair of Red Wing Wabasha Leather & Canvas Boots have caught my eye. They've got a lot going for them – they're hard wearing, made in the US of A and not least, they look fantastic. One drawback is their price; they weigh in at over one and a half ton although I would guess it is a case of you get what you pay for with these beauties. I think I shall see if they get reduced in the sales otherwise I'll have to settle for some Clarks or Timbies, maybe.

Like a piece of headwear, a pair of gloves is another winter essential. It's all good and well having the warmest coat in the world but you can't allow your hands to freeze now, can you? A smart pair of leather gloves usually do the trick but these Folk People Gloves look ace and the vibrant colours and patterning are very novel quirks. Speaking of quirks, the fact these can be rolled back to keep your arms warm is another cracking feature.

I'm all for a bit of old school Americana and a classic 60/40 Parka certainly falls into that category. Many notable outdoors brands, the majority from Colorado, were responsible for the 60/40 innovation of using 58% cotton and 42% nylon (rounded for convenience) and these shells were hugely popular prior to the increased use of other materials such as goretex. They're pretty damned elusive to get your hands on but I've seen a number of stunners on a certain auctioneering site although none of these have been in my size. I guess the hunt all adds to the fun though, right? I'll keep on trying. What brand will I be looking at? All sorts in honesty – Columbia, LL Bean, REI, Sierra Designs and Woolrich are among them. The 60/40 parka is a fantastic example of outerwear innovation that inspires countless coats and jackets today.

The winter weather can on occasion get so chilly that wearing a heavy, lined jacket simply isn't enough. For these situations you'll need a good piece of knitwear to nestle in between your shirt and coat. When it comes to high quality knitwear there are few who do it better than Saint James. This French label makes some of the greatest fisherman's sweaters out there. The use of tight and heavy stitching helps to waterproof the garments as well as keep the piercing cold of the wind at bay. This Saint James Cancale II Sweater is a fine example of this while its shoulder button placket is a clever feature.

If chinos are the trouser of summer then there is no doubt that cords are the trouser of choice for the colder months. The cold and rain don't do wonders for your raw selvedge denim so if you want to avoid seeing big blue stains all over your new mountain boots then getting a pair of cords your grandfather would be proud of seems a wise move. These beige Paul Smith Cords tick all the boxes for me.

This last one is very much a case of wishful thinking because, but for a lottery win, I don't foresee anyway for me to be able to picking this up. I'm only sticking it up because it's the one piece that has truly taken me aback. The Nigel Cabourn Cameraman Jacket is based on the coat worn by Wilfird Noyce on his photography trips to Everest. This belter features an off white Mackintosh upper and an authentic Harris tweed lower section. This is a truly fantastic jacket. To anyone out there who can afford it, I truly envy you – fancy lending me a spare £900?

size? x adidas Glasgow

2010-08-06T06:52:00.000-07:00

The latest in the 'size? x adidas' collaboration series is the Glasgow trainer, which is scheduled for a release on the 4th September. In exactly the same fashion as the previous issues of this special series (London, Manchester and Dublin) the trainer will only see a limited release whereby only 500 pairs will be available to buy with each person restricted to one purchase.

As has become the norm with these releases, very few details were given away and speculation and rumours were rife on various forums and messageboards across the net. Some claimed that they would be blue and green in a nod to the city's two most famous football clubs while others speculated that they may well be released in 'Irn-Bru' colours. Size? only encouraged the speculation further by promising those who signed up to their newsletter a 'sneak preview' of the trainer.

This is all a load of bollocks, but as I said before this has become the norm with these size? releases. Why not just release a photo and allow people to decide whether they like them or not rather than trying to get more people signed up to your newsletter? The only explanation I can give is fairly simple and straight forward – they can afford to. No other retailer can gather as much hype and interest to their trainers than size? can. They have, in effect, cornered the trainer market.

Now all of this could have been forgiven had the trainer actually been any good. Well, now that I've seen the photos, I won't be forgiving them. In my humble opinion, they're absolutely vile. The white sole unit makes them look cheap and like something straight out of JD. Furthermore there's a horrific mismatch of colours which contrast rather than compliment one another. Sure, the shape of the trainer is okay, but this itself is based on the Spezial, one of adidas' most popular models.

It's all very lazy. The colours weren't a nod to the Old Firm or a popular Scottish drink (though I doubt this would have been much better in all honesty). Instead they were modelled on the Glasgow tartan and as you would expect with colours designed for being put on cloth in a pattern, they simply don't look very good on a trainer.

The adidas Glasgow also features scroll writing as opposed to the standard lettering. This is down to them being part of the new 'Signature' series and not 'City' issues but they just make the trainer look even more naff at the end of the day.

I could maybe understand collectors or people from Glasgow picking these up. After all, it isn't everyday adidas do a trainer based on your home city. But anyone picking these up for themselves might want to question themselves as to whether they would really be prepared to fork out £70 of their hard earned if these weren't a special release. I doubt they would in all honesty.

Could these look better with a gum sole? Maybe.

Could they look better in the flesh? Maybe.

This release (like the Dublin before) hasn't filled me with much hope for the next releases of the size? x adidas Birmingham and Cardiff trainers and I'm beginning to question when was the last time adidas released (not re-released) a decent trainer? I'm probably being harsh as I'm basing this all on one photo, but to be quite frank I'm a bit sick and tired of all this size? nonsense. As I said before, they may well look better in the flesh, but I for one will not be queueing from the early hours of the morning to find out.

Depression Era America in Glorious Technicolour

2010-08-02T11:24:00.000-07:00

This great selection of photographs was recently brought to my attention by a poster on a forum I visit regularly. The photographs are some of the only coloured images in existence which depict the effect of the Great Depression on rural towns in America.

They have, as you would expect, got a proper old school Americana vibe to them and it's certainly the sort of images you conjure up in your head when reading any of John Steinbeck's works.

Here are some choice photos, but follow the link for the full selection - they are well worth a proper look.

La Masia - Football's Best School

2010-08-02T10:42:00.000-07:00

FC Barcelona is not a club alien to having some of the finest players in the world on its books. A mere glance at some of their previous sides and you will quickly see just how many of the world's greats have played there - Cruyff, Maradona, Ronaldo, Stoichkov. For many Catalans however, more pride is placed in there domestic talent than in the numerous foreign stars they have held over the years. It is a region of Spain where many yearn for independence from the rest of the mainland and key to their sense of regional pride is their football team, and in particular the graduates from their youth academy known as La Masia (The Farmhouse).

In recent years English football has been riding the crest of a wave, domestically at least. This year's Champions League final between Inter Milan and Bayern Munich was the first time in six years that an English team had not contested the final of Europe's most famous club competitition. It is Barcelona who have been the scourge of both Arsenal and Manchester United, have dispatched them both by simply passing the ball around them in the past two years. Arsenal, billed as England's own answer to the Barcelona way of football (despite possessing very few English players) were humbled 4-1 at the Camp Nou earlier this year while a Manchester United team possessing both Cristiano Ronaldo and Wayne Rooney were powerless to prevent the Catalans' march to European glory in the final in Rome in May 2009.

Barcelona's starting eleven in that match at the Stadio Olimpico featured seven players who had graduated through La Masia. Among them were Lionel Messi, Andrés Iniesta and Xavi Hernández – all of whom have been nominated for the FIFA World Player of the Year award.

So, what is the secret to their success?

The answers may well be found at an eighteenth century stone farmhouse situated beside the Camp Nou.

Built in 1702, the farmhouse saw its first use by FC Barcelona in 1979 when it became the residence of the club's youth recruits. Players come to La Masia at a very early age. Club legend and current manager Pep Guardiola, for example, joined the club as a thirteen year old boy. He made a 70km journey from the village where he had spent all of his early life and took a huge step to becoming the player he went on to be.

It is estimated that around 450 others have taken a similar journey to Guardiola. Their origin may have been different but their destination remained the same. Over 40 of these players have gone on to represent Barcelona at the highest level while another 40 have represented other La Liga clubs. Others, such as Arsenal's Cesc Fàbregas and Liverpool's Pepe Reina, have found considerable success abroad.

Carles Folguera has been director of La Masia since 2002 and he believes that it is not only responsible for the developing of the players as footballers, but also has educated individuals. He has gone on record as saying, "At no time are there any loose ends in the effort to make sure they can develop as normal kids."

Unlike the majority of youth academies in England, La Masia is a full time programme. It is "twenty-four hours a day, seven days a week". While this may sound intense, especially as a significant number of players join the system before their tenth birthday, Pep Guardiola has fond memories of his time at La Masia. "I remember from the first day when my parents dropped me off that they gave me very good food," he said. "The Masia is a vital part of the club - searching out talent, welcoming in those that cannot live in Barcelona and educating and training them is one of the most valuable things we can do. It's the cheapest investment over the long term and something the club should continue and develop."

Guardiola's comment regarding cost is an interesting one to note. La Masia costs only €6 million per year to run. Sure, for every success there will be another four or five failures, but when the standard of those successes is so high it will always be a better financial option than signing talent in to the club. This can be proven when one takes a look at the two starting elevens that contested last season's second 'El Clásico'. Real Madrid's starting side cost a staggering £208 million while Barcelona's cost only £63.7 million in comparison. Indeed, the Catalans would go on to triumph in that match which was one that would go a long way to deciding who eventually came out on top come the end of the season.

Life as a young footballer is a stark contrast to life at any major academy in England. Emphasis is placed on nurturing not only footballing talent but also lifestyles an attitude. As Guardiola said, the importance of healthy eating is underlined as is the virtue of an early night. The players eat meals together in a communal fashion while they share bunk-bed dormitories with one another. Once their homework is completed and their work is done for the day the players are free to relax, often by playing PlayStation with one another. The players are kept away from distractions and perils, things that often engulf a younger player in English football.

The players are transported around the city where they can enjoy schooling at some of the city's finest educational institutions. After a morning's work, they return at 2pm for lunch and a siesta. This is followed by around two hours of intense football training each evening, before homework is completed and relaxation enjoyed.

The boys are taught to adopt three main principles in their play. They are urged to be more sporting than the opposition, giving away fewer fouls and being less aggressive in their play. They are also instructed to play in an attacking, expressive fashion with the emphasis on a reworked brand of 'Total Football', a style made popular by club legend Johan Cruyff. Their final and perhaps most obvious principle is to win on the scoreboard although Alberto Capellas, the club's senior youth coordinator, maintains that they do not wish to complete the third aim without fulfilling the first two.

Leaving family life at such an early age is not problem free however. Two of La Masia's most famous graduates, Cesc Fàbregas and Andrés Iniesta, both struggled to adapt upon their move to the club. To counter these problems the player's families visit frequently and the boys are encouraged to form strong bonds with their contemporaries. Lionel Messi and Fàbregas met each other at La Masia and have remained close friends since.

The current poster boy of Barcelona, Lionel Messi, perhaps wouldn't have made it anywhere else. His move to the club as a 13 year old boy was the result of the unwillingness shown by domestic sides in Argentina to pay for the growth support drugs he needed. Whereas size and strength are often highly prioritised by scouts at other clubs, Barcelona prefer to do things in a different way, highlighting the importance of ball control and distribution at an early age. There is also an outlook that the bulk of the team should be comprised by youth graduates. Anything less than 50% and eyebrows may well be raised.

Whatever it is, La Masia must be doing something right. The Barcelona team at present are arguably the world's best and contain arguably the world's three best footballers, all of whom are youth graduates. This success has not gone unnoticed and many other clubs, ranging from Liverpool, Manchester United and even Wigan Athletic, have sent representatives to La Masia to try and unearth their own unique formula for success.

Icons - Robert De Niro

2010-07-31T08:35:00.000-07:00

Few people have a stronger claim to being the greatest actor of all time than New York native Robert De Niro. A double Academy Award winner, De Niro's CV cannot be described as anything other than brilliant. Indeed for nearly two decades, from the 1970s to the early 1990s, he hardly put a foot wrong.

Forging a great working relationship with the legendary Martin Scorsese, De Niro's performances in New Hollywood-era productions such as Mean Streets, Taxi Driver and Raging Bull have gone on to become the stuff of cinematic legend. Such was his huge committment to nailing any role he was asked to fulfill, De Niro put on seventy pounds in four months so as to accurately portray the state of Jake "The Raging Bull" La Motta in his post-boxing years.

It wasn't just his output with Scorsese which was incredible. When you consider his performances in The Godfather: Part II (my all time favourite) and The Deer Hunter (where clothing obsessives will notice his stunning Sierra Designs parka) you begin to realise that De Niro is quite simply cut from a different cloth.

Able to pull off the swaggering upstart (Mean Streets), the 'family' man (The Godfather Part II), the loner (Taxi Driver) and the unfulfilled talent (Raging Bull) with equal conviction, De Niro has also dabbled with musicals (New York, New York) and darkly comic masterpieces (The King of Comedy).

While his most recent output hasn't been of the same standard there is no doubt that De Niro is an icon of the big screen. With a burgeoning career as a director and another Scorsese lined up for the near future we certainly haven't seen the last of this man.

Selected Filmography
Hi, Mom! (1970)
Mean Streets (1973)
The Godfather: Part II (1974)
Taxi Driver (1976)
The Last Tycoon (1976)
The Deer Hunter (1978)
Raging Bull (1980)
The King of Comedy (1983)
Once Upon a Time in America (1984)
Brazil (1985)
The Untouchables (1987)
Goodfellas (1990)
Cape Fear (1991)
A Bronx Tale (1992)
Casino (1995)
Heat (1995)
Jackie Brown (1997)

Sierra Designs Vintage Range

2010-07-29T09:39:00.000-07:00

The 60/40 parka is an iconic piece of outdoor clothing, having been pioneered by several mountaineering brands in the 1970s. Donned famously by the supercool Robert De Niro in The Deer Hunter, these parkas have inspired numerous contemporary jackets. Yet despite their huge influence it remains remarkably difficult to get your hands on one of them.

Perhaps the greatest of all of the brands who produced these parkas back in the day is Sierra Designs, a label which has been producing clothing as far back as 1965. While their popularity has faded stateside they are huge in Japan where fantastic parkas are still being produced and lapped up by the style obsessed Japanese. These parkas are impossible to buy outside of Japan so either have to be imported (at a very expensive cost) or a vintage number can be found on eBay from time to time.

Sounds difficult, you say?

It is.

Perhaps it isn't very surprising that these 60/40 parkas (interestingly actually 58% cotton and 42% nylon but rounded for convenience) are no longer being produced. All things considered the likes of Sierra Designs, Woolrich and REI are not fashion labels. They specialise in and cater to an outdoors market which wants the best and most functional materials to be used in their jackets. 60/40, while no doubt fantastic at the time, is no longer the best out there because like everything else materials evolved. There are better mixes out there for doing the job.

However very few (if indeed any) of the new jackets released by these brands to the North American and European markets actually look anywhere near as good as 60/40 parkas released in their heyday. It is because of this that, having been in contact with someone working at Sierra Designs, I was delighted to hear that Sierra Designs are going to be unveiling a new 'Vintage' range of clothing in which a 60/40 parka will feature. I was assured that the quality and style of the new jackets will not be compromised on and so I look forward to seeing this range when it is released. Fingers crossed that they will look as good as the originals and that I will be able to get my hands on an iconic piece of outerwear.

Label or Look?

2010-07-29T07:06:00.000-07:00

It's a question that many of those in the know will ask themselves and no doubt the answer can be very dependent upon your age and circumstances at the time of asking. A large number of older lads have ditched the Italian labels they used to love (Stone Island, C.P. Company, Armani, Paul & Shark etc.) and are now more focusing on the appearance of the clothes as much as the label who produce it. Indeed, with the present financial crisis and the decline in most people's disposable income many are now looking to get an outfit for a figure that they may have previously spent on one single jacket.

Value is becoming the order of the day.

Personally I have been into my clothes for a while now but being just sixteen and having no official job means that I've always had to keep an eye open for bargains and go much more for the look than for the label. Only last winter there was a Stone Island parka released which really took my fancy but at present I'm not in the financial situation to spend anything close to what it retailed at on one single jacket.

So I look elsewhere.

One of the jackets which I've been most taken by recently is a Schott NYC Mountain Parka which came in a stunning apple green colour and will be released next summer. Schott isn't a brand I would usually look at but having bumped into it when I did the rounds over the internet blogs, it immediately took my fancy. Although I've been informed that it's perceived as a label for the more "flamboyant" fellas in cities such as New York and Paris, it doesn't hold that status in the UK and given the fact it is a brand not often associated with lads, it will retain a degree of exclusivity as well.

There are certain people who claim to have favoured the look over the label for a long time (see those who wear Blue Harbour jeans) but I've never really been a fan of cutting corners on an outfit. Sure, I may not be able to afford that Nigel Cabourn or that Engineered Garments piece but I'll look to the forums, auction sites and if needs be, other brands such as Penfield or Fjällräven.

I hate high street fashion and, in general, anything that can be too easily obtained. This may seem ridiculously snobbish and may come across as me being up myself but it's just the way it is – the way I am. It may be a different kettle of fish for items which I wear less; I've heard good things of GAP chinos and I do wear Blue Harbour cargo shorts in the summer. However when it comes to anything that I'll be wearing more than a handful of times I'll try and keep an eye out for a bargain and not to compromise on quality too much.

It was interesting to see the reaction of a number of like minded individuals when they were asked about this stuff which is going to be released by high street store and bastion of all things funboy, Topman. I, myself, have to admit that some of it doesn't look too bad. But that's just where the problem lies.

It may look fine but how long will it last? The fact that it is mass produced doesn't necessarily mean that it is bad quality but as David Keyte said to me in an interview I did with him, it means that it has no 'soul'. With things like a piece of knitwear or a pair of hiking boots I am looking for something with longevity, and something that won't be worn by every man and his dog.

I also don't like the way in which several brands are having their own designs recycled and rehashed by larger companies. For instance the Albam fisherman's cagoule has been done to fuckery now with everyone from French Connection to Weekend Offender (cringe) copying it without having any aim of putting their own slant upon it. There is a fine line to be walked between drawing inspiration from something and just downright 'stealing' from it. They'll make a quick buck on these jackets no doubt, but it won't be my buck.

So what is it for me?

Personally it's just not as simple as saying 'look' or 'label'. One doesn't really take priority over the other. I've seen some pretty horrible stuff released by some pretty good labels. It'd be very good quality but would I wear it? Would I, fuck! On the other hand I've seen some reasonably appealing stuff released by high street stores but if the quality isn't there, than neither am I. It has to look right and it has to be of a good quality. This can be achieved without breaking the bank and so I don't prioritise either. Instead I try and understand the importance of both and strike a balance whilst always keeping an eye open for a bargain.

Penfield AW10 Preview

2010-07-28T16:02:00.000-07:00

The prospect of winter is something that always excites me. Gone are the days of sweating excessively and uncomfortably and back are heavy coats, knitwear and plaid shirts. I make no secret of the fact that I'm more comfortable in colder conditions and layering up increases the number of outfits you can pull off. The design of winter jackets is also often more quirky and interesting than the unlined efforts that are the standard in the warmer months.

One brand that specialises in winter clothing is New England's very own Penfield, a label which is famed for the down-filled outerwear they have been producing as far back as 1975. The appeal of Penfield's clothing is pretty apparent straight away – it looks good, it's functional and it is always relatively inexpensive to acquire, especially in the sales.

What's not to like?

Well, judging by this sneak preview of their forthcoming winter collection, not a lot. In fact it looks pretty much spot on.

Below are images of three jackets from Penfield's new collection, which is available to preorder from Hanon.

Part of the Penfield Trailwear range, the Danville is an insulated trail jacket featuring two lower angled pockets and two front chest pockets. The jacket will be available in three colours – khaki tweed, black and navy. The non-tweed colours have an outershell made of Penfield Hudson wax cloth, which has been developed for it's waterproof, windproof and drying properties as well as for increased breathability. On the khaki version, the tweed outer is 65% wool and 35% viscose. Expect the black and navy efforts to set you back £150 and the tweed to weigh in at £200.

Returning once again is the Kasson jacket, an effort clearly inspired by the mountain parkas designed in the 1970s by renowned outdoor clothing companies such as Columbia, REI and Woolrich. This four pocket parka is, as you would expect, 60% cotton and 40% nylon and is part of the Trailwear range, just like the Danville. This rugged jacket has a teflon fabric protection to ensure that it is waterproof as well as other features designed for keeping you warm and dry in bad weather conditions. A nice feature is the check lining which is no doubt an ode to the classic parkas of the 1970s. Available in black, khaki green and navy, the Kasson will cost £120.

The Farlstad jacket is included in the Penfield Classic range and is available (once again) in black, navy and khaki green (albeit slightly darker than the other khakis). A water resistant field jacket, the Farlstad has the Penfield Hudson wax cloth outershell as one of it's features. In addition to this it also boasts an internal windstopper panel, two front angles hand pockets and an arm patch logo in a similar style to Fjällräven. The middle of the bunch in regards to price, the Farlstad will cost you £140.

Budget Shopping: Denim

2010-07-28T07:07:00.000-07:00

Some people spend countless hundreds of pounds on the latest jacket or a pair of expensive footwear – amounts that most normal people would consider nothing short of weird. Personally I don’t find it all that unusual. Indeed, there have been numerous occasions where the “weird” label has been thrown at me once people have discovered how much I spent on a certain shirt or jacket. Paying good money is the consequence of wanting to look good and this applies to every part of the outfit in my view. It’s because of this that I find it a tad bemusing that some people will spend hundreds of pounds on their latest high tech Stone Island shimmer jacket or Nigel Cabourn’s new effort and countless on a pair of second hand trainers off the net yet display an unwavering reluctance to spend anything sizeable on a pair of jeans. For me what you’ve got on your legs is as important as what you’ve got on your feet or over your polo or shirt. It sets off the look and keeps everything appearing as it should.

In my mind it is really worth going to town on your denim and buying selvedge or unwashed jeans is definitely the ideal option but some people just aren’t willing to do this. Here are three ways to keep your legs looking smart and hold your outfit together without breaking the bank. You’ll never have to buy a pair of jeans from Marks & Spencer’s again!

Levi’s
Every man has probably had a pair of Levi’s jeans in their wardrobe at one point or another. There’s a very valid reason for this; they’re absolute style classics. Without a doubt the most iconic jean ever produced, Levi 501’s are certainly not the best jeans out there but for the price they are arguably the best value out there. Pretty much every jean you can think of owes an awful lot to Levi’s. Widely available and often obtainable for around the £40 mark, Levi’s come in a wide range of styles for all shapes and sizes. They won’t last forever but provided you avoid the multipocket versions favoured by street types, you won’t go wrong.

Uniqlo
Boasting fourteen stores in the UK (all in Greater London), Uniqlo is hugely popular with pretty much everyone at the minute. However, don’t allow this to put you off. There’s nothing really wrong with their jeans. They’re modelled on the classics (rightly so) and last year they produced their own selvedge denim which retailed in at £35, reducing by a further £15 in the sales. I’ve a pair myself and they’re definitely worth that. They won’t have the longevity you get with the more premium brands but if you’re still reading this, this probably won’t bother you too much.

eBay
One other option open to you is to head over to the world’s largest auction site and see what’s going there. eBay can be a frustrating place at times to say the least but your patience can, every now and then, be rewarded handsomely. I’ve had all sorts of bargains with my denim on there, having picked up a couple of selvedge efforts for less than a score each. You may be forced to go second hand but if you’re willing to fork out a huge amount on a second hand pair of deadstock trainers then forking out considerably less on a pair of jeans doesn’t seem that bad really. Do your research a bit as well. See what Super Denim or Oi Polloi is stocking. Often a lot of these brands are fairly unknown and therefore can stay under the radar which will limit the amount of money you have to spend quite nicely.

An Evening Down the Pub

2010-07-17T11:09:00.000-07:00

I spent yesterday evening down the pub in town and sampled a few cask ales which were on offer. I've only started to get into my ale recently but I'm already beginning to appreciate the increased flavour which you usually get with good beer as opposed to mass produced, watered down lagers.

The first ale I sampled happened to the best out of the bunch. I've been impressed with Cornish ales (Doom Bar etc.) previously and this time a pint of Tribute from St. Austell brewery once again proved to be a hit. The beer is very well regarded and has gained many awards as well as being consistently voted as one of Britain's Top Ten Cask Ales. Originally called Daylight Robbery, Tribute is now named as such as a tribute to the 1999 solar eclipse. The beer is bronze in colour and has delicious malty and citrus fruit flavours throughout. A great beer!

Next up was a 2010 speciality beer from Bateman's brewery – England Expects (more than that shite). The ale was another nice sup - easy to drink and amber in colour, the beer had a pleasant hoppy flavour which was a nice contrast to the more fruity Tribute I drank earlier.

Finally I had a pint from Welsh based brewery Brains. I sampled the Brains SA, which is one of their more famous bitters. The beer had a nutty edge to it but there was something that stopped me from enjoying it as much as I had the previous two. Perhaps it was overly dry, who knows? Whatever it was didn't make it an unpleasant beer, I just preferred the previous two.

After another two pints of Tribute, I stumbled home – ever so slightly pissed.

Preview - Universal Works 2010 Winter Collection

2010-07-14T09:37:00.000-07:00

David Keyte has sent me a few photos of the forthcoming Universal Works winter collection. It definitely looks like a collection to a keep an eye on, with the parka style jacket being my particular favourite.

Anyway here are the photos:

Interview - David Keyte (Universal Works)

2010-07-14T09:29:00.000-07:00

David Keyte, head honcho over at Universal Works, has been kind enough to take a bit of time out from his busy schedule and answer some questions regarding his background in the industry, his current brand and his plans for the future.

Cheers David, and I hope you readers enjoy!

1) When did you decide you wanted to work in the fashion industry?
When I was 11 and left junior school and I was about to start "big" school, I forced my parents into giving me the money they would spend on my uniform and allow me to buy it myself. I knew early on I had a definte look I wanted! I also did a paper round so I could add to the money and buy better things. My mum was just not understanding the importance of good loafers!

2) I notice that you worked for Paul Smith. In what capacity did you work there and how has it helped you in establishing Universal Works as a brand?
I started working in the original Store in Nottingham and worked my way up (it was a small company back then) and eventually I was Production Manager for all product with a dozen staff.

3) You've also worked with Margaret Howell and Albam – what role did you fulfill when you worked for them?
After leaving Paul Smith I did a number of freelance projects on production , sourcing and product development. One of the companies I worked with then was Margaret Howell. It was very managment based and not all all a design brief.

With Albam it was quite different. I was really just helping them with a number of things from sourcing to design but those guys have their own look and I was really just helping them. They are young guys starting out in the industry and I had known them for a while and was simply passing on some experience.

4) Out of the names you have worked with, which of these would you say has had the biggest influence on your designs for Universal Works?
It sounds conceited but no one. Certainly Paul Smith and a designer who worked with him called Derek Morton were a huge influence and I have great admiration for them both. But really the way my grandfather dresses is more of an influence on my designs than any fashion designer.

5) What made you decide to establish your own label?
I had moved back to Nottingham from London and after 25 years of working on someone's else designs the timing just seemed right to start my own line. I guess you would say circumstances and timing. Sometimes these things just happen.

6) What year did you set up Universal Works? What steps did you have to take in order to do so?
Blimey, have you got a while?!

It would take a few pages to talk about the steps to setting it all up, but I decided in early November 2008 to start the company. We worked with some very supportive factories, made patterns in days with a good friend of mine and with my wife put together a 45 piece collection using stock fabrics and yarns. After some crazy days I had a sample collection ready for the middle of January 2009 , and we started delivering that first collection in July 2009.

7) Was it a risky move to establish your own label or did you feel prepared and confident when doing so?
Well I don't come from a wealthy background and I don't have a rich benefactor so certainly it's risky starting your own business. However it helps to focus the mind when you know designing a bad collection or your company not providing great service will mean that the bank will own your house and you will be sleeping on mate's sofas - not a good idea for a man of my age!

8) How would you describe the philosophy behind Universal Works?
It's about good, honest clothes for blokes (although we do have a few girl fans too!). I wanted the clothing to be a great fit with great detail and fabrics. I want it to be interesting but also allow the wearer to express themselves and not me. It's simple but stylish and easy to care for and a price that would not kill you either.

Oh yeah, and trying to get guys to stop wearing tight jeans!

9) How time consuming is running your own clothing label?
It's totally time consuming - I have not been to a Villa game two seasons!

The only non work thing I seem to do these days is trying to keep up my running (I'm trying to train for a half marathon) but right now the brand takes up most of my waking hours, which is maybe not too healthy but I love it.

10) Universal Works is not found in many of the country's shops. Have you deliberately limited the number of stockists?
We don't want to grow too fast and we want to be loyal to the stockists who have supported us from the beginning so that does restrict us to some extent. We have a few now in the UK and we're growing in Japan and the USA. Like many new companies we do want to grow but carefully and slowly. We are no in any rush to be rich – we're just happy to enjoy the day

11) Many of Universal Works' clothes are produced in small factories. Does this help to ensure a better quality product?
The production in smaller factories was really because I hate mass production. I know it has its place in the world - I guess my mobile is better made in a big Chinese factory than anywhere else, but I love the smaller hand skilled, more "touchy feely" places where people make a difference and I can talk to the people sewing or knitting things.

Really I know that often big factories can mean great quality not poor quality, but the items quickly become soulless. Let's face it, my mobile has no soul - I think Universal Works' clothes do have soul.

12) Producing in smaller factories typically means that the end product will be more expensive. Despite this, a lot of Universal Works' garments are still relatively affordable. Have you deliberately kept it this way? If so, why?
We keep our overheads as low as possible and try to pass on any savings into the retail price. It's called "Universal" in part because I want it to be affordable and not elitist due to price, not that everyone will like the style but it should not be simply about me making money but also about good honest clothing at realistic prices.

13) Would you say there is a "secret" to designing a great piece of clothing?
Not really – just ask yourself a few questions.

Would you wear it to the local pub and feel comfortable in it?

Will it survive the washing machine?

Does it look good?

We might not need fashion but since we kind of have to wear clothes then they should look good as well as perform and fit well. It always helps if they are comfortable too.

14) Where do you draw your inspiration for your designs from?
Mostly my Uncle Bill (now he could dress!). My grandfather, too, was a mean dresser on the Saturday night.

15) What are the steps taken that see an item of clothing going from a sketch to actually being produced? How long does this process take?
It's basically a four to five month process to the final sample we show to the retailer, then another five to six months before it is in store. In between the sketch to the final sample we go throught stages such as pattern making, prototype and importantly sample correction.

16) Do you have a favourite collection you have produced? Do you have a preference to producing summer or winter collections?
The last collection is always the favourite. Actually, no that's wrong. It's the next one, cos thats always going to even better.

17) What is your favourite piece of clothing you have designed, before or during your time with Universal Works?
The Knit Work Jacket was the first piece of knitwear in the first collection of Universal Works – it's still in the collection for winter 2010 and its' still my favourite design.

18) What labels do you wear aside from your own?
These days it is all my own - it's just easier that way.

19) Are there any other designers or labels which you greatly admire?
There are many - Margella, Comme des Garcons, Junya Watanabe, Massimo Osti, 45 RPM, Margaret Howell. But mostly the clothes I most admire are on old guys I randomly see in the street!

20) What are your plans for the future of Universal Works? What can we expect from the winter collection?
My plans are to keep improving the pieces we design and produce and hopefully enjoying what we do. As for winter 2010, I'll send you a preview.

Last Film Watched... - Memento

2010-07-14T08:44:00.000-07:00

Directed by Christopher Nolan (The Prestige, The Dark Knight), "Memento" is adapted from a short story called "Memento Mori" which itself is written by Jonathan Nolan, Christopher's brother. The film stars Guy Pearce, Joe Pantoliano and Carrie-Anne Moss while it also makes use of a unique, interesting and innovative way of displaying the plot.

Throughout the film we learn more about the story of Leonard Shelby (Pearce), a man intent on gaining revenge for his wife's brutal murder – an event which not only left him a widow but also prevents him from retaining any new memories following the incident. As a result of this Leonard makes use of notes, tattoos and polaroid photographs to keep track of who is who and what is what in his life. Helping him with his task are barmaid Natalie (Moss) and the mysterious Teddy (Pantoliano) though as the story develops we are forced to question whether their help is at all beneficial.

"Memento" represents Nolan's first step as a director of a major motion picture, and it is a very assured one. Evidently inspired by film noirs of eras gone by, "Memento" is a very cold film – something that some may claim is to it's detriment. Nolan's pioneering direction helps to maintain interest and your attention throughout the film's 116 minute running time.

It is smart, suspenseful and far from simple but "Memento" is definitely a must see film. Guy Pearce, a hugely underrated actor, gives a great performance as the obsessive Leonard while the supporting cast cannot be faulted. The labyrinth plot can be seen however you want it and should you invest the time in rewatching the film, you will not be unrewarded due to the huge number of interpretations that can be drawn.

Find it, buy it and watch it.

4.5/5

Perfecto by Schott NYC Mountain Parka

2010-07-11T02:13:00.000-07:00

You can't beat a good parka in my eyes – they're an essential for every man's wardrobe. I'm therefore fortunate to have such a range to choose from at present with nearly every brand worth looking at boasting their own twist on this classic design.

One brand that I wouldn't have expected myself to look at is Schott NYC. However their mountain parka for the spring of 2011 looks very promising indeed, coming in a very nice khaki green colour.

Schott have described it:

"The original jacket was popular in the late 60s early 70s. Our 30 ½” self lined version is made from our dead stock 60/40 nylon cotton poplin and features gold hardware."

While there are other brands I'd certainly look towards first for this style of jacket, it may be worthwhile keeping an eye on this piece to see what it retails at because it may very well be a relative bargain compared to other brands.

Note: The following photos have been taken from Selectism.

Interview - Kenneth Mackenzie (6876)

2010-07-08T08:50:00.000-07:00

The latest in my series of interviews is with Kenneth Mackenzie, designer and founder of popular clothing label 6876 – a brand famous for its focus on quality and fabric innovation.

Cheers to Kenneth for the interview.

What is your background (if any) in the design / clothing industry?
Originally I studied graphics and then fashion and I worked at various magazines and design companies on internships. After graduating I worked as sales director at Duffer of St George for five years.

I've noticed that 6876 is named such due to the 1968 student riots in France and the emergence of punk. Do you therefore feel that 6876 has a certain rebelliousness about it and doesn't go about things in the conventional way?
Yes it was more a mentality than any stylistic details as well as the fact that these movements were a great influence on me. However i also had this view that the concentration had to be on the product and the brand, not specifically me as i hated all the ego-led fashion mentality of naming a brand after yourself. Check Run DMC Rock Box for the best put down of CK.

Why did you want to set up your own clothing label?
Basically i didn't really want to work for other people anymore and i thought i might have something to offer. Of course you never really know.

What is the ethos behind 6876?
That it is an independent company with good product, interesting concepts and it is fairly priced. Above all its a pooling of ideas and people with a modernist mindset.

Where are 6876 garments produced?
Currently they are produced in Portugal, Slovakia and the UK. Previously we have produced in Italy as well.

Is 6876 popular across the globe or is it a brand which is predominantly popular within the UK?
We have a good UK following but there is also a strong market in Scandinavia, Japan and the USA.

A lot of your clothing is popular with the football casual. Why do you think this is?
I'm not too sure but I think the casual scene has a loyalty towards its brands and doesn't tend to be dictated to by anyone. I think they are keen to wear and search out smaller, less marketed brands.

6876 is relatively hard to find due to the limited number of retailers who carry it. Has this been a deliberate move and what benefits does it carry with it?
It's a complex situation. We found it very difficult to continue the twice yearly collection system and also i felt it was becoming outdated so we moved to rolling product and decided to work on more collaborative projects. However sometimes it is tricky to find the correct manufacturers so it takes time to release product and we have our own online store so it is not in our interests to sell to a large amount of retailers.

Would you ever want to see 6876 become a larger brand or are you keen to maintain it as a small label?
If the situation was correct then yes I'd like to change the way we work but sometimes "the grass is always greener" mentality isn't necessarily so simple.

Where does the inspiration for your designs come from?
That's a huge question! Inspiration is taken from military, work wear, vintage sportswear and re-interpreting classic items. It's so hard to pin point as it is so personal and sometimes it might just be a fabric that sets off an idea or a reaction to move in an opposite direction. As for my obscure references maybe that's better left to another time but it could be a photograph or a film – anything.

What has been your favourite item that you have designed?
The ones that don't sell! In the old days my favourites didn't always sell. It's hard to choose as there's now different eras as in a smarter look, a more sportswear look etc.

A jacket that will come back as i feel it can be done better is a double Harrington we made in Italy around 2000. It's basically two complete jackets that button together and quite a few friends have it and are always telling me to re-issue it. Anyway i am on a 90's 6876 head at the moment. It's odd as people ask always ask when particular jackets are from and i sometimes forget they are ten years old.

6876 has become renowned for technical innovation in many of its designs. Have you always been interested in researching and implementing new fabrics?
The fabrics have always been key to the brand and it's one of the parts of designing that is the most interesting to me. I have a huge admiration for the real innovators in the textile area.

What other designers / labels do you admire?
There's brands that I admire for different reasons but unfortunately they are too indepth to list here. Among them are Patagonia, RRL, Filson, Vintage REI, Yoshida Porter and Alden. On a more fashion head there's Margiela, Dries Van Noten and Junya Watanabe. Plus there's just certain stores that I like – Old England in Paris, Kapital in Tokyo, Farlows in London. I also have many military and workwear items.

Following your recent collaboration with the Regent Belt Company, can we expect more collaborations with other labels in the future?
We have one major collaboration with a technical outwear company for AW11 which is going to be very good... but I can't reveal yet.

The Capandula jacket was an enormous success and has now become a very rare item. Are there any plans to "reissue" certain jackets in the future or is the focus on constantly evolving the designs?
It is only in last few years that I've become comfortable with the idea that i have a relatively large back catalogue and that at times it is okay to delve into that so now I think there's a marriage of newer designs and some re-interpretations.

What can we expect from the forthcoming winter collection?
Most of the collection is made in the UK with very high quality Military Barathea's so although modernist in design, it has a classic 6876 more clothing than sportswear feel. Although it's NOT Heritage in feel, in anyway shape or form - death to fake Heritage!

What are your future plans for 6876?
To get our production facilities running more smoothly so that we can release more product and make sure the two joint brands are successful.

Recent Purchase - Casual Connoisseur "Bulldog Bobby" Tee

2010-07-07T15:01:00.001-07:00

Not a purchase as such, the latest addition to my wardrobe comes as a gift from the good chaps over at the Casual Connoisseur following the interview earlier this week.

This, like all of the Casual Connoisseur's tees, is produced in England and made of heavyweight cotton. The tee pays homage to England's 1982 World Cup mascot, Bulldog Bobby, but in a clever reworking Bobby's ditched his England shirt and shorts in favour of a classic casual look – Lyle & Scott v-neck jumper, brown corduroy trousers and Adidas trainers (modelled on the Tahiti).

It's an original design, great fit and comes with the usual Connoisseur quality.

Thanks and hats off chaps!

Tune of the Day - "Tell me what you see..."

2010-07-06T14:40:00.000-07:00

I've got a bit of an obsession, so to speak, with Wigan's finest band at the minute. Having recently discovered the Verve or Verve's (as they were then known) second album A Northern Soul, I have been struggling to turn it off or get any of its majestically rousing songs out of my head.

Having been previously grabbed by the epic "History", it is now "On Your Own" drawing my gaze. What both tunes have in common is that they lack the chaotically brilliant guitars found on most of the album's tracks, yet this is compensated by an achingly reflective tone to the songs – a tone which is enhanced by the simple acoustic guitarplay of Nick McCabe. Ashcroft's intimate vocals later descend into a high pitched falsetto which sympolises his yearning for an end to the loneliness portrayed in the song.

It's an undisputed masterpiece.

Interview - The Casual Connoisseur

2010-07-05T15:23:00.000-07:00

Another day and another interview.

This time the interview is with Tom from the Casual Connoisseur, a clothing label based in Greater Manchester. The label has already been enormously succesful, establishing itself as one of the leaders in the "casual" tee market as well as diversifying into other areas such as hats, scarves and even calendars!

I'd like to thank Tom for the interview and hope that you all enjoy reading it.

Where can I buy The Casual Connoisseur clothes?
First and foremost everything we do is available through our website. We also have a few selected stockists out there. We're proud to be in Ran in both Liverpool and Manchester. In Originals in Barnsley, Bloc3 Hull and were in our own town at Schindler (unfortunately recently ceased trading) as well as being far away as Russia. We've been in other places too and it may vary currently depending on who's ordering what. We could do with a couple more perhaps north of the border and south of the gap.

We deliberately choose to limit stockists and have never chased anyone to stock our product, people have asked us. Some may think it's ludicrous or silly but we've turned down several offers of stockists and not renewed with others in the past. We may one day live to regret that but it was our choice. This is totally our own preference mind. Whilst we love the interest and the fact people want our brand, we want to remain that bit more exclusive and elusive and not be over saturated and everywhere!

Do you have a background in the clothing or design industry?
Not officially in either. My brother and I are pretty obsessive and creative types. My father worked in advertising for many years and growing up we both had access to a mine of the best graphic materials from letraset, magic markers and layout pads (it was the 80's!). You would find us lying on the front room floor scribbling away as much as you would playing football in the street when we were kids and we were known for being keen artists as youngsters. We would have probably followed in the same footsteps but circumstances changed and we left college prematurely (which may be something we should have stuck with in hindsight, although the course was rubbish).

I've actually designed my town team's (Stockport County) home strip for the 2006-07 season and have since worked on a consultation basis for the ones which followed. I have a keen eye for details and what works, especially with graphics and logos.

We've created and edit our own websites and I think they look pretty smooth for a self taught background. My brother had put his mark on several things through his freelance design work, including maintaining one or two commercial sites, and the likes of commercially released book covers, event flyers, publishers and media, as well as working for the likes of Proper Magazine and even 80's Casuals too.

He (and me too, but more-so him) has amassed a rather unhealthy collection of outerwear and clothing, of course shoes too, havinghad a background in that field working for over five years in a shoe shop, (my longest career step was working as a manager for a high street video chain for around five or six years). He has a keen eye for construction and detail and his plans to help take us to the next level would probably need some professional help. Despite this, it's fair to say we have an idea of what we want and where we want to take this. Getting there is part of the fun and can be difficult but we've always maintained we'll be a self sufficient brand.

Have you ever designed for other clothing labels aside from The Casual Connoisseur?
As I said, our kid often gets asked to do one or two designs for the 80's Casuals brand including the likes of their "Bexie", "Osti" and the more recent "Pills and Thrills" tee which was apparently one of their bestsellers yet. He also came up with their logo.

I personally haven't done any clothing work but done logos, flyers, websites and other more boring corporate stuff for a range of people.

There's my brother and I involved in the design process although we will use outside contributions and collaborators when possible or when required. For example, we have used a Leeds based artist Retro-skull-duggery on a few tee designs and also have section76 on board with various collaborations.

How would you describe your label?
Alternative and original. We try to be as different as possible, we're obsessed with film, music, clothes as well as the football so try and get that across with what we're doing.

What prompted you to set up your own clothing label?
I started making random t-shirts for myself and then friends in my bedroom out of boredom whilst in a mundane job. I used to look at things and think, "that would look good on a tee - why has no one done it before?" and then do it myself as a one off.

I am a big fan of A Clockwork Orange and was fed up of the lack of good stuff available. It was always the same one or two images so I did a few of my own tees. It totally grew from that. If ever I had one on, I'd get asked where it was from and started to see a possible avenue to explore, especially when I was in town and shop managers were asking me about something I'd made myself; asking where it was from and what brand it was - that's when I saw the potential. In around 2006 I was chatting with a friend who was to become the business partner and we started to look at it a bit more seriously, discussing where we could take it and looking at ways of getting out there.

I'd just fucked off the dreadful mundane job so there was a new motivation involved in getting it off the ground and having a good old go.

But to answer the main point, the lack of stuff we wanted to see really. Initially on a tee but it's true now as we do more, we still maintain we want to do our own thing and offer something alternative and hopefully fresh.

Where does the inspiration for prospective designs come from?
Everywhere! If I could I'd release a tee design every week, such is the wealth of ideas we have through all sorts of inspirations in the world.

Was there a financial risk in setting up the Casual Connoisseur? If so, what precautions did you have to take?
No, because we didn't have much money between us it was a case of being self-sufficient right from the off. It was a case of what we put in initially we get back and from then on we grow by what we're doing and run it soundly, without ever getting into debt or trouble. It would take time from the beginning but we're doing it properly and using hard graft. We've never thrown money at it, mainly because we've not had the money to throw at it. We've come from a working class background. We reap what we sow. If we're busy and successful as we have been thus far then we can continue to grow and progress further offering new products and ideas as we go.

Where are Casual Connoisseur products manufactured?
We have our tees produced locally in Greater Manchester. They supply us with our t-shirts and do the screen printing there aswell. They are a long established company who produce stuff for many different types and certain brands aswell - I believe they also produce stuff for a certain emo/trendy brand who've recently turned over millions.

The Weir hat was produced by a company in Nottingham, and all our labels are woven by a company in Lancashire and another company in Sussex. Our polo shirts are also produced in England. Everything we do is produced in the UK, unless that's not possible.

Is it important to maintain a close relationship with the factories that manufacture your products?
We need to have a good working relationship for sure. Some are easier than others - we put something in and it comes back totally spot on first time, which is a joy. Others we are back and forth with and have the odd discrepancy with, but it all usually works out. Sometimes it's a gamble; we will always require a sample up front and do our own 'quality control' tests with any new stuff, i.e. worn and washed, ironed and dried. You occasionally need to meet deadlines and are kept waiting but I've realised this is something we have to put up with when someone is making something for us - it's usually in their hands. There's a great feeling when you open a big box for the first time and it's all gone exactly to plan.

How have you promoted the Casual Connoisseur?
We do our own promotion through the web, the blog, the site which gets a terrific amount of weekly and monthly hits. I also tend to slightly hint at new releases with a taster to gauge interest first, which helps when we are sometimes kept waiting (as I mentioned above) but also gets people asking questions too.

We use all our own graphics and take our own photography, which we are a little fussy with. We only recently set up a Facebook account which has had a great response thus far. We're on our way to nine hundred followers in the space of a couple of months.

We did the Project Sticker, which was pretty innovative. It is essentially a plug for the site, using three designs on coloured, vinyl stickers which carry the web address. We send a few out with each item sold and we encourage people to stick them in interesting places, in turn making a great webpage for people to look at. There's a CC presence all over the world - from small islands to New York City and Moscow's famous subway. We actually get a lot of people asking us to send them stickers out too but they only really come with our products.

Could you describe a typical customer or are your designs popular with a great range of people?
We have a wide range of customers who are both young and old. We do well with the football style crowd but also equally well with people into their films and music who are pretty alternative to your average young casual. It's a real diverse mix, which I think is about right for the product we produce and what we are all about. Our casual themed tees always do well, but our Northern Music tee is easily one of the best sellers. We have a lot of scope, we are certainly not solely aimed at one market in particular.

We sell our product absolutely everywhere, every week I will post out the UK and there's always ones going to Europe and South America too, we have a great loyal bunch of followers who buy most new releases too. Our recent canvas shopper bag has been popular with both males and females too.

What are some labels that you admire or have influenced your designs?
From the off, I always quite liked the skate/street brands which did graphic t-shirts. In my younger days I was a big fan of Stussy and Supreme and the like, and a brand called Serial Killer (which had cult film scenes and cult heroes on them). Oh, and Felix Blow was a good brand too but they have sold their soul to the funboy crowd now.

My personal favourite labels would have to be the likes of 6876 - Kenneth Mackenzie has been doing his own thing for years now and does really nice clothing – subtle, smart and very well crafted. I've got a lot of his stuff and have been buying it since it first really emerged, which coincidentally was when I was first earning a wage. There's a great mix of smart shirts and harrington jackets and macs in my wardrobe, and of course the Capandula jacket which I must like as I've got half a dozen! it was never really a 'casual' brand, but while it has a decent following from that crowd, many others buy it too.

I'm a fan of some of the more recent British labels too, like Garbstore, Universal Works and Dominic Stansfield's stuff, I like Engineered Garments aswell, and functional outdoor brands too. I don't really buy much from the likes of Stone Island and C.P. Company as I used to years ago, and One True Saxon is a total shadow of it's former self. I'll bore anyone who'll listen about how I was wearing that stuff when it was well under the radar. There's quite a few labels I can say me and our kid had a hand in bringing to the fore, which I would not say if it wasn't the truth. The problem with this is you then have to move on to something else as everyone else gets on to it. I've not bought any Adidas trainers for a good couple of years either. I guess that's growing up and moving on. I like New Balance and the ideas they come up with, and always wore them at the football to try and be a little alternative. I'll still buy a good bit from the classics like Ralph Lauren, Paul Smith and Lacoste too.

Do you have a favourite tee which you have designed?
Tough question really. Ask any designer or label what their favourite piece is and they usually tell you the one they liked the best was the one they sold the least. Whilst that is not the case with us, there's been one or two I've been over the moon with which haven't sold as well as one's I wasn't totally enamored with, such is life though. My favourite designs would be the likes of the Ultraviolence one because for years you could only ever buy a tee of the famous silhouette of the droogs, from the high end to low end fodder that's all they ever used while we did our own unique take on it. I'd release loads more if I could. I like the series tees we do like Wise Guys, Anti Heroes - there's no end to what we can do with them and they always get comments. Also the one's which were designed by others for us like Action Man, the Subbuteo ones and the Nymph tee (it's a great design that, which not too many will get. I like it, it's proper out there.)

The Northern Music Factory is so simple and it works so well. Sometimes the more obvious and generic stuff are the one's which shift quickest, but that's what people want.

I have noticed that other Casual Connoisseur products like pin badges and bobble hats have been produced and that plans are afoot to begin producing polo shirts. Do you ever foresee producing your own range of outerwear or are you keen to keep the Casual Connoisseur as a tee-centred business?
Our brand is just that, a brand - a clothing label, not centred exclusively around around tees, although they take up a huge amount of what we do currently. That's where we started and it does very well, but there is a lot more to The Casual Connoisseur. We want and will be doing so much more. It's all building up, slowly but surely. We have a line of polos being produced for us right now - they are taking longer than we had anticipated, but as they are made totally to our own spec it's something we must put up with.

Our aims and intentions are to provide good quality produced clothing which is somewhere between the high end and the affordable, and usually deliberately limited in release to maintain exclusivity. We don't want to just churn out easy 'off the peg' stuff, but we want to market our clothing to the right people and not price them out with over inflated and over hyped prices. There is a middle market there which we can fit into, if things cost a lot to produce they will cost more to sell but we still want to maintain the quality aspect and, where possible, have things produced right here in the UK. On occasions though the best and only places can for production are overseas. People may look at Europe and further East as a bit of a cop out but we've found these to actually be places where they can actually only be possible for a smaller label like ourselves. We are currently sampling one item of outerwear at present and this is certainly a step in the direction we want to be taking. There are plans and ideas for all sorts but it's one step at a time. Progress is good, but it might be slower than we'd like, which does frustrate me at times.

However, there's no point in just jumping in and investing everything in one run of an expensively crafted jacket. I want to make sure anything we put our name to looks great and handles even better, but other long standing brands are established in that field and better than we are too. They also have the means to do what they want, so why even try and compete with that?

There's always a worry that quick released stuff will just end up looking like something from Primark with a badge stuck on. So it's better to take time, sourcing things properly and finding the right man for the right job. We have been self sufficient from the off and most of what we make goes straight back in. Contacts are the key - finding the right places is a lot harder than you may think, even if you have the funds waiting and available it's not easy. You will find one place who can do exactly what you want, but in what is ridiculous quantities for a label like ours. This is all part of the challenge and it's all a learning curve for us.

What are your future plans for the Casual Connoisseur?
Plenty - progress is the key. The tees will always be produced as there's always new ideas and hopefully always a market. There's a lot more we want to release and work on. I cannot say a great deal on that front yet, as I've tended to say too much in the past, but we should have polo shirts and sweatshirts in the coming months. This is in addition to the return of the Weir hat, which sold out in less than a month last year. Behind the scenes we are working on another couple of items too. I'd like for us to collaborate with more people in the future too.

The King of the Cagoule

2010-07-05T12:00:00.001-07:00

Peter Storm was founded in 1954 by Noel Bibby. The company soon became famous for innovative design, helped by Bibby's experiences with the Royal Marines in World War II and his passion for outdoor clothing. Bibby, who passed away in 1989, helped to establish Peter Storm as a successful outdoor brand across the globe.

A highlight of the range, the Peter Storm cagoules became hugely popular in the late 1970s and the early 1980s following the emergence of the football casual subculture. They were paired with split Lois cords or bleached drainpipe jeans as well as the latest training shoes from the continent including Forest Hill, Nastase and Samba. This look is captured in last year's Awaydays (based on the novel by Kevin Sampson) with the clothing of 'the Pack' but the film makes use of replicas (produced by Adidas) as opposed to the real thing. These can be seen below.

The look quickly evolved and other labels became more prominent but the recent vintage craze has ensured that Peter Storm cagoules have and will remain an iconic piece of clothing for casuals and outdoor enthusiasts alike.

Below are photos of some Peter Storm catalogues.

Note: The images of the cagoules are not my own and are provided courtesy of Nicolas Ticklish' photostream.

Tune of the Day - "I wander lonely streets..."

2010-07-05T04:00:00.000-07:00

Released as a single just after their sudden first break up, The Verve's "History" marked a bold new direction for the Wigan band. The song was a departure from the heavy psychedelic and shoegaze style that was prominent on their debut album "A Storm in Heaven". The song is nothing short of an epic and the orchestral strings and acoustic guitars would later provide inspiration for two of the nineties better known songs – "Bitter Sweet Symphony" and "Wonderwall". The song builds gradually and culminates with Richard Ashcroft's vocals bearing more and more desperation.

"History" is alleged to have been written about Ashcroft's break up with a long term girlfriend, though the vocalist has denied this. Whatever the song is about it is very easy to relate to and remains one of the (lesser known) masterpieces of the Britpop era.

A bit of trivia / useless informaton for you as well – the clapping heard in the songs is provided by Oasis frontman Liam Gallagher.

The song can be found on the Verve's second album "A Northern Soul" (1995).

Interview - Editor (Proper Magazine)

2010-07-04T15:57:00.001-07:00

Proper Magazine is a fanzine style publication run by Mark Smith and Neil Summers. The Stockport based magazine is always an interesting read and has included articles about 6876, Garbstore and Stansfield as well as interviews with the C.P. Company enthusiast Griff Rhys Jones, DJ Greg Wilson and Awaydays author Kevin Sampson.

Mark from Proper Magazine has been kind enough to spare some of his time and give the following interview.

Where can I buy Proper Magazine?
It's available online from the Proper Mag shop plus a selected number of retailers. You can find out more from our website though.

How long have you been working in publishing for?
I'm not sure I'd go as far as saying I work in publishing. I put a fanzine style magazine together in my spare time and write content for a couple of clothing websites. I've been doing Proper and another fanzine before it for about 6 years now I think. Neil is the co-editor and he too hasn't really worked in publishing or written much before Proper. Maybe that has helped us in a way? It's hard to say.

You say you've written for clothing websites. What sites are these?
I'm helping Oi Polloi with the content for their new website at the moment and help Casuals Clobber with their newsletters and blog. I also used to help out Schindler Shop before they ceased to be.

What made you want to set up your own magazine? Do you think there is a lack of decent magazines out there?
There are plenty of decent magazines but there's nothing quite like what we do. It's obviously very niche at the moment and probably always will be but we just thought we could apply the same ideas we had doing the Stockport fanzine to our other interests and promote it via the web.

What other publications have you worked for?
The only thing I've ever done of any substance before now was a Stockport County fanzine.

How would you describe Proper Magazine?
It started out as a fanzine and while it has grown up a bit in the 4 years we've been doing it, I'd like to think it retains that feel. We write about whatever we're into but have started to centre on clothing.

Who would you say is your target consumer?
It's hard to say. On our Facebook we've got young lads from the football crowd desperate for a bit of inside information on the next big labels, but then we've also got arty professionals who I suppose appreciate our impartiality. Most other magazines writing about clothes seem to have more of an agenda to push. We sell a surprising amount of magazines to overseas people though, from all corners of the earth!

Where else have you sold these magazines?
There are loyal readers all over the place. A guy in Mexico has bought every issue from the start and in addition we've sent copies to El Salvador, Argentina, Brazil, Japan plus more obvious countries like the US and Canada. There are more countries in Europe we have sold to than haven't. Scandinavia and Italy probably account for the biggest amount though.

What are the steps taken in order to produce Proper Magazine? How long does it take from getting the ideas for an issue to seeing them in print?
It's far from an exact science and has changed with each issue. Generally though, we try and have 2 or 3 standout pieces we can headline with then everything else is added on the fly and based on who agrees to talk to us or be featured. The concept at the start is never what ends up being produced but I suppose that's what keeps it interesting for us. Time wise it has varied and I've been keen to stay away from accepting subscriptions because doing so demands we stick to a release schedule. I'd rather do one good magazine a year than rush 3 or 4 out and have them average.

Is there a secret to producing a very good publication?
You're better off asking someone with a longer and stronger track record than little old me! I would say we've found it easier to write about things we're passionate about, or things that we find interesting ourselves. We're keen to stick to that formula because it seems to have worked out ok for us so far. You also need support from advertisers and it makes sense to match those advertisers to the content you're writing about.

What problems have you come across while working on the magazine?
The biggest problem of late has been Royal Mail losing or ruining copies of the last issue. We've increased Issue 9 to 48 pages and while it's still covered by a first class stamp, it seems the extra thickness and regular envelopes meant some got mangled or killed by the sorting system. It's a pain but these things happen. We're using strong envelopes now and that seems to have helped. Other than that, we've not encountered too many problems. It's frustrating dealing with retailers at times but those who get what we're about have been really supportive.

What is your favourite issue of Proper Magazine and why?
There are bits from all of them that I like, but we'd not be doing things very well if the latest issue (#9) wasn't the best, and therefore my favourite. We spent a couple of days in London getting content for the latest issue and I think it shows. We've got similar plans for issue 10.

Aside from Proper Magazine, what other magazines do you read?
I'll read almost anything. I've drawn the line at things like Nuts and Zoo and only occasionally bother with Loaded and FHM. It must be an age thing. But I've got piles of magazines in the spare room, from old GQ's, Maxim, Esquire and so on, plus football fanzines from various clubs. I get stick for that though, so I'll leave it there!

What magazines or publications have served as influence for Proper Magazine?
Jack Magazine was short-lived but is probably the kind of thing I'd like to see return. The editor was James Brown who founded Loaded and now runs Sabotage Times. Beyond that, obviously Viz has always been a massive influence and the story of how it came about is inspiring. I'd say it's pretty much impossible for any home-made publication to do what they did these days. There are publications out there that are inspiration for knowing how we don't want to do things. Some magazines take themselves far too seriously. It's only clothes and that isn't it?

Are there are any features or labels you would like to include in future issues of the magazine?
What we'd like to do and what we'll end up doing are two different things. There aren't any holy grail type interviews or features we'd like to do. We just let it happen really.

What are your future plans for Proper Magazine?
Who knows? I've never really thought about where the ceiling is for a publication like ours. It'd be nice to get more support from retailers and brands because although we're quick to play down what we do, it's clear there's a loyal following who are clearly influenced by what we write about, and in that there's probably significant value for advertisers. With more substantial advertising we could move towards a more polished look, but retain the style of writing. There's a fair chance issue 10 will be a similar format but the layout, colours and design will be improved if our plans come off, but generally as I've said already, we just do things on the fly.

Adidas London 2010 Reissues

2010-07-04T12:54:00.000-07:00

The latest release from Adidas to catch my eye is the planned reissue of the Adidas London for 2010. Reissue of the London, you say? Yes, despite being reissued earlier this year (as part of the Size? x Adidas collaborations) the Adidas London is set for another facelift.

The colours this time are radically different. It's not just a case of reversing the colourway (as it was with the Consortium London) but the London reissues are set to come out in four brand new colourways. These are brown & light brown, blue & light green, black & orange and yellow & blue.

To anyone with even a distant interest in Adidas trainers these colours are instantly recognisable. They are in fact the colourways of the Adidas Amsterdam, the Bern, the Brussel and the Malmo. All of these are four of Adidas' most iconic and enduring Adidas City releases, fetching quite a lot on eBay to boot.

Taken on their own none of these are bad trainers at all. But it all begs the question why name them as London? They're clearly not a reworking of the trainer but an entirely new version, so why not just reissue the other city series?

All in all I quite like these trainers. The Amsterdam (see how people are referring to them) look very decent and while I'm generally not a huge fan of black trainers, the Brussels do look quite smart. The Malmo look like they may be hard to clean but they're better than the majority of new Adidas releases while the Bern also look a nice trainer.

If I'm being picky then the sole on the Brussel model is too light – it needs to be darker (as it is on the original version seen in the images below) and I also think that the gold lettering looks a bit tacky. I'd imagine, like most recent city reissues, these will cost about £70 and I'll probably pick up a pair of either the Amsterdam or Bern colours as I do think they are good looking trainers. They're not a patch on the originals, mind, but I'm not in the financial position of being able to spend over £200 on a pair of trainers from the 1980s (I actually feel uncomfortable paying over a ton for a pair of trainers) so buying from eBay isn't an option.

I hope Adidas don't overkill colourways on the city series models like they did with the Gazelle and Forest Hill trainers but it wouldn't surprise me if they headed that way because these are bound to sell out fast. I'd imagine the touts will soon be flogging them on eBay to some punter with more money than sense pretty rapidly too.

Below are some images of the trainers versus their original version. I couldn't find the a close up of the Amsterdam London so decided not to bother to do a comparison for it. If you're that arsed then I'm sure Google will show you a photo of the originals.

Note: None of the below photos are my own. The photos of the reissued Londons are taken by Oslojaxx of Found_NYC.

C.P. Company - SS11 Preview

2010-07-04T11:35:00.000-07:00

The first C.P. Company garments were produced in 1975 and were aimed at the Italian market with the intention of providing a more traditional look to a man's wardrobe. The C.P. Company philosophy can be summised in one short phrase – "Function and Use".

The large majority of C.P. Company's range is inspired by the clothes worn by those in the militarty. In recent years this focus has evolved into a focus more upon urban city clothing. This can be seen in their "Urban Protection" range.

What makes C.P. Company such an attractive and exciting brand for many is that it is designed as functional and technical clothing. As such, features such as smog masks, watchviewers and the iconic goggles have been found on many C.P. garments. This (and their use of pioneering fabrics under the reign of Massimo Osti), of course, means that much of C.P. Company's clothing is very expensive (expect a jacket to cost over half a ton) yet this also provides some degree of exclusivity for the brand.

I have attatched a few images which offer a brief glimpse into what C.P. Company may be offering for next year's summer collection. From the looks of things it appears that they are pursuing a more traditional approach with much of the clothing looking quite similar to some of the classic pieces from the nineties. The highlight for me is the Mille Miglia in a stunning burnt orange colour which looks a great piece of clothing which will probably hold a price tag to match.

All in all, it looks like C.P. Company may very well be making a comeback and could well be a brand to keep an eagle eye on.

Tune of the Day - "There's nothing you can do that can't be done..."

2010-07-01T14:43:00.000-07:00

Credited to Lennon/McCartney, "All You Need Is Love" is actually a purely John Lennon penned number. Released in July 1967, the song was written as a response to a Brian Epstein request for a song which would give a simple message which would be easy to understand for all nationalities. The song topped both the American and British singles charts and to this day remains one of the Fab Four's most loved and popular songs. It has been covered by numerous artists including Echo & the Bunnymen, Tears for Fears and (surprise, surprise!) Noel Gallagher.

The Youth of Years Gone By

2010-07-01T10:35:00.000-07:00

94 years ago today that the Battle of the Somme began.

May all who served their country and fought bravely rest in peace.

In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place; and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.

We are the Dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved, and were loved, and now we lie
In Flanders fields.

Take up our quarrel with the foe:
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high.
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields.

The Youth of Today

2010-06-30T15:23:00.000-07:00

I've been mulling things over recently and it crossed my mind that today's youth generation may be the first generation without a defining subculture. If you look over previous decades there has always been a subculture for the youth to engage with and become a part of. The 1950s had the teddy boys; the 1960s had the mods; the 1970s had the punks; the 1980s had the football "casuals" while the 1990s had a clear youth culture with the Madchester and Britpop scenes enjoying their peak of popularity during that decade.

This generation doesn't have that defining subculture.

In some aspects this is sad but in other ways I'm quite glad it's turned out in this manner. The lack of a defining youth subculture or movement enables me to seek out and forge a more personal identity which is independent from the majority of my friends and this can only be a good thing. After all, who wants to look and like the exact same things as their mates?

I may get stick for wearing garments which are different or "out there" to what the majority like but I'm glad of this as it helps make me who I am.

Here are some photos of Britain's youth subcultures in years gone by.

Good Sites

2010-06-30T12:45:00.000-07:00

You may have noticed that at the top-right of my blog I have a good sites section (soon to be updated further) featuring a number of websites and blogs which I frequent. I've written briefly about them and would urge you to have a look at them yourself as there all worth a browse.

Casual Connoisseur: The Casual Connoisseur is a clothing company based in Stockport which at present principally produces tee shirts. However other items of clothing / accessories have been produced such as bobble hats and pin badges. There are also plans to produce bucket hats, polo shirts as well as outerwear. Based on the design sketches I have seen and the quality and originality of their present garments this is definitely a brand to keep an eye on. I also post on their forum regularly, where all aspects of "casual" culture are discussed.

Casual Connoisseur Blog: A very interesting blog associated with the Casual Connoisseur which posts updates on their latest products as well as all sorts of other interesting things including clothing, film and other aspects of popular culture.

County Lads: Another good site run by the Stockport County fan going by the name of Oneupmanship. Among the website's numerous interesting features are a brief look at the history of football fashion, little bits of information about shops (including OiPolloi), photography of "casual" icons and a host of great photos of footwear and clothing you may see or have seen on the terraces. All of this is set to a great soundtrack including songs from the Clash and the Kinks.

Oneupmanship Journal: This regularly updated journal (associated with the Casual Connoisseur) has a wide focus, with features on footwear, functional outerwear and film all regular occurrences. A great read – his Flickr account is also home to some cracking jackets and shoes to browse at and admire if you're killing time / interested in that sort of thing.

Red Bricks and Coal: This blog is run a Wigan Atheltic fan (and poster on the Casual Connoisseur forum) and centres around his experiences following his team around the country. There's also a focus on ale, clothing and other random (and interesting) musings.

The Hovian: This very well written blog is, like Red Bricks and Coal, is about a man following his local football team. This time, however, it's Brighton & Hove Albion instead of Wigan Athletic. It's not purely about football however with regular updates on his latest clothing purchases and other cool features such as book reviews and the like also commonplace.

All of these blogs / sites are definitely worth a read / visit.

Last Film Watched... - Gone Baby Gone

2010-06-30T09:23:00.000-07:00

Adapted from the Dennis Lehane novel of the same name, crime thriller "Gone Baby Gone" is Ben Affleck's debut directorial feature. Starring his brother Casey as well as Michelle Monaghan and Morgan Freeman, the film revolves around the investigation into a young girl's disappearance from a blue collar Boston neighbourhood. There is, as you would expect for a film nearing two hours, much more to the story than initially meets the eye, with an excellent cast of unsavoury and even more unsavoury characters including drug lords, junkies and corrupt police officers all playing their part in the plot.

I thoroughly enjoyed the film. The acting was good, especially from the ever reliable Morgan Freeman and from Amy Ryan while the film's moral dilemna left me pondering the film's conclusion for a long while. Without wanting to give too much away, the climax leaves you realising that at certain times there is no right or wrong, just that some things are worse than others.

I'd definitely recommend this film. It's gripping, well acted and thought provoking.

4.5/5

Recent Purchase - Casual Connoisseur Party People Tee

2010-06-30T08:54:00.000-07:00

With the summer heat coming on strong it's time to get rid of the winter jackets, trousers and footwear and embrace tees, shorts and trainers.

Courtesy of the good lads from the Casual Connoisseur I have bought the "Party People" Tee. Over at the Casual Connoisseur inspiration is taken from numerous areas – casual culture, pop culture, film and music. This particular tee takes clear inspiration from the Madchester music scene and rave music scene. In particular, the logo is a clear nod towards the artwork of the Happy Mondays "Madchester Rave On E.P." (which was released in 1989.

The tee is made of heavyweight cotton and the quality and fit are clearly top notch. The tee is a nice navy colour while the "Connoisseur" logo comes in pink, yellow and sky blue – vibrant, colourful and perfect for the summer. A nice touch is the pin badge which arrives with the tee which although I forgot to photograph can be seen on the Connoisseur website.

Woolrich Woolen Mills S/S 2011 Preview

2010-06-24T15:24:00.000-07:00

Here is a glimpse of the Woolrich Woolen Mills collection for Summer 2011. It will be the last collection that Daiki Suzuki is is in charge of with Mark McNairy set to take over the reigns as Creative Director.

A bit hit and miss for me in those photos but the jacket in the second photo looks stunning, and in a cracking colour too. There is sure to be more on offer as well so it looks worthwhile keeping your eyes peeled.

Icons - Keith Richards

2010-06-24T04:25:00.000-07:00

Few people embody the spirit of rock n' roll more than Keith Richards, rhythm guitarist and founding member of the Rolling Stones. Born in the December of 1943, Richards discovered his fondness for blues artists like Chuck Berry and Muddy Waters at an early age. It was a shared love of this music that drove Richards and schoolfriend Mick Jagger together and inspired them to form the Rolling Stones in 1962.

It didn't take long for the Rolling Stones to become a major success; a key element to it being Richards simple, catchy and incisive guitar riffs. Songs such as "Street Fighting Man" and "Start Me Up" all became famous due to Richards' innovative use of open tunings on rhythm guitar, a technique more frequently seen on slide slide guitar.

Richards songwriting can also not be doubted with classics such as "Wild Horses" having clear and heavy Keith influence in them. Occasionally Richards also takes to the microphone, "Happy" (a song often described as encapsulating the Keith spirit) being arguably the best example of this.

Richards is just as famous (if not more so) due to his lifestyle as he is because of his undoubted musical genius. Tales that have helped to define his outlaw persona included falling out of a coconut tree at the not so tender age of 62, snorting his father's ashes and frequent drug fuelled binges. In a band which is famously destructive (see Brian Jones and Gram Parsons), some consider it a miracle that Richards has managed to survive a life of alcoholism, obscene drug use and all that comes with it.

As he recently said in "Stones in Exile", a film documenting the recording of the masterpiece Exile on Main St. (often known as Keith's album due to the chaotic manner of its recording), "Mick (Jagger) needs to know what he's going to do tomorrow. Me, I'm just happy to wake up and see who's hanging around. Mick's rock, I'm roll."

Football and Ale

2010-06-23T11:16:00.000-07:00

Watching England is always a nervy experience and it proved to be the case once more. I went out to watch the England vs. Slovenia match at a local pub with my old man and sampled a few nice ales while doing so.

First up was a pint of Old Speckled Hen, on offer from Greene King. A nice beer indeed; pleasant and easy to drink with elements of fruit, malt and toffee all combining for a top drink.

Second up (and my preferred of the two beers) was two pints of Brains SA Gold. Originally launched in 2006, this golden ale was lovely and refreshing with citrus bitterness adding balance. A boss beer!

Also nice to see England scrape through – bring on the Germans!

What Am I Wearing Today?

2010-06-22T02:20:00.001-07:00

Baracuta Harrington Jacket (Tan)
Polo Ralph Lauren Custom Fit Short Sleeve Shirt (Light Blue / Brown Fine Check)
Edwin Raw Denims (Indigo)
Adidas Gazelles (Brown / White)

The Adidas Gazelle are in an American only colourway.

This outfit was actually worn yesterday for a few beers around town.

Universal Works

2010-06-21T13:19:00.001-07:00

David Keyte is a designer with a serious track record. He has spent over twenty years in the industry working for and with such well-respected and renowned brands as Paul Smith, Marharishi, Margaret Howell and Albam. His latest efforts are with his own brand Universal Works and I'm seriously impressed.

Priding itself on high quality, affordable (without compromising on durability) and great looking menswear Universal Works centres its focus on the "function, fit and cuts of garments". Working with small, independent factories in order to produce the highest quality product, much of Universal Works' collection is UK made, something which only adds to its appeal.

Of course all of this would be irrelevant if the garments didn't look good but they don't dissapoint. I have selected a few that have caught my eye the most (excluding the Chambray Workshirt) and they can be seen below.

Universal Works Bakers Jacket (Navy Twill)

Universal Works Cotton Canvas Mountain Parka (Khaki)

Universal Works Fell Jacket (Blue)

Universal Works Fell Jacket (Ecru)

All cracking garments in my view.

The current Universal Works collection can be bought online from stores such as OiPolloi and Oliver Spencer.

Thinking About Getting... - Universal Works Chambray Workshirt

2010-06-21T01:56:00.000-07:00

If it's good enough for Steve McQueen then it's good enough for me.

Looking like denim with a feel of cotton, chambray shirts are extremely casual, often associated with prisoners. Along with blue denim jeans, chambray shirts are often referred to as "prisoner blues". The early David Bowie song Come and Buy my Toys (1967) also mentions a cambric (chambray) shirt: "You shall own a cambric shirt, You shall work your father's land, But now you shall play in the market square, Till you'll be a man".

One chambray shirt which has taken my fancy is the Universal Works Chambray Workshirt which at just over fifty English pounds looks like a bargain price. With two front pockets and attentive red stitching throughout, the detailing on the shirt looks to be top notch as can be seen in the photos below. While it may be made in India, I have heard the quality of Universal Works' clothing is without fault.

The shirt should look great with a pair of chinos and some nice shoes. I need to sell a few pieces and purchase a few more before, but if the shirt is still available when I have the funds then it will be on it's way to me.

Future Size? Releases

2010-06-20T18:47:00.000-07:00

Two future releases from Size? here. Firstly we have the Adidas Jeans in a Navy / Red colourway then a pair of the Adidas München in a Green / White colourway. I like the look of both pairs to be fair, both are superior to the recent Adidas Dublin in my opinion and both will look good with a pair of cargo shorts down the beer garden in the summer.

The Adidas München were also first released in the 1970s (1979 to be exact) and were, like many Adidas models, designed as a training shoe before becoming very popular as casual footwear with features such as their unique sole making them very popular with trainerheads across the globe.

Originally intended to be worn with jeans, the Adidas Jeans were very popular in the 1970s. The splash of yellow between the upper and the outsole and the gold lettering are the trainer's two most prominent features.

Both models were reissued late last year in different colours. Expect them to retail at around £65.

Tune of the Day - "My daddy was a bankrobber..."

2010-06-20T18:01:00.000-07:00

Released as a single on 8 August, 1980, "Bankrobber" never found its way onto any of the Clash's studio albums. The song appears to be about the singer's father who was a bankrobber but on the bigger picture I think it's about the working classes having jobs with zero fulfillment, and how life's too short to spend time working in a shit job that you hate.

Interestingly, ex-Stone Roses frontman Ian Brown is said to have been in attendance when the song was recorded in the studio.

Not one of their best, but an ace song no less.

Adidas Dublin Reissue

2010-06-20T16:59:00.000-07:00

In order to celebrate their tenth anniversary, shoe retailer Size? have collaborated with Adidas to produce a limited number of reissued and new trainers with matching tracktops.

As of yet the Adidas London and the Adidas Manchester have been reissued, and as of last week as has the Adidas Dublin.

Retailing at £69.99, many trainerheads have not been best pleased with the whole process. Many have complained about the whole limited numbers situation creating a demand which far exceeds the supply, allowing the touts to sell for a pretty penny on eBay (one seller had his reissued Dublins with a Buy It Now price of £370). Others have said that people's willingness to queue up in the early hours for what is just a trainer is pure craziness.

Either way I'm not impressed with the Dublins.

I have no problem with the limited numbers or the queuing (to a point), it's just the trainer I don't like. Having bought the previous reissue (the Adidas Manchester) I was hoping for a nice Dublin reissue as I haven't been prepared to pay over the odds for the trainer but the decision to opt for waxed leather over more traditional suede was a bad one. As showin by the photo showing the four generations of Dublins, the current collaboration just doesn't look as good as the OGs or the previous two reissues.

Adidas and Size? still plan on releasing more trainers together, with Adidas Birmingham, Adidas Cardiff and Adidas Glasgow all due for release at a point in the near future but they're losing popularity fast. Many believe the look has evolved from trainers to shoes and second-rate reissues aren't going to make them change their mind.

Recent Purchase - Dickie's Steel Selvedge Denim

2010-06-20T16:53:00.000-07:00

Good denim is a crucial part of the look.

I've never quite understood the reluctance of some people to not bother with putting on a nice pair of jeans. You can see many a lad with a smart jacket, smart trainers (or shoes) yet in between he'll be wearing some bad fitting jeans, often by Blue Harbour or another budget brand. There's nothing wrong with Blue Harbour; it's good for the essentials, but I feel good denim is worth putting some money into as jeans can last for a very long time provided that you take care with them.

Selvedge denim appears to be all the rage at the minute. Everywhere you look brands are churning out their own range of selvedge denim – APC, Paul Smith, Studio D'Artisan etc.

I've opted for a pair of Dickie's Steel Selvedge Denim Jeans having been impressed with what I read and noticing a bargain price for them on the web.

The denim used is made from Zimbabwean cotton, which is regarded as some of the best out there while the selvedge denim is woven in Japan using vintage shuttle looms in order to provide a product with great aesthetics, longevity and feel.

Introduction

2010-06-20T16:48:00.000-07:00

I've been thinking of setting up a blog for a fair while and finally decided to go out and do it instead of just flirting with the idea. On the blog I hope to air my views on clothing, footwear, football and anything else that crosses my mind or interests me.

Hopefully you'll all find something interesting on the blog.